Doug I'm glad you posted this as I was contemplating the same thing last night. Bought an Atlas 618 which is now soaking in Evaporust. I'd like to pull the Atlas shield and the model plate. It is my recollection that the pins are in through-holes, though they are often plugged and virtually invisible. I'll be looking for those. I think Bill Hardin at
The ones I removed from a Monarch were hardened. The first thing I did was to grind a slot in the top with a Dremel cut-off disk, and try and turn them out with a screwdriver. About half came out that way. The rest I ground flush to the plate and removed the plate - since it was fairly thick I could then grab the shaft of the screw with vise grips. All but one came out that way, that one I have to drill out with a carbide drill.
The hole size was a little over for a 4-40 thread, but I ended up tapping and getting enough thread for small screws when I put the plates back.
Hit 'em back and forth a few times with a cold chisel to loosen them. Then grab with a pair of vise grips and try to twist them out. The cold chisel will usually flatten the sides enough for a decent grip.
If the holes are through holes, punch them out.
John Martin
My Southbend had one busted off on the gearbox, had me cussing trying to drill it out, at the time I didn't realize they were hard, I thought I hit a hard spot in the casting. I ended up redrilling in another spot that maintained the look of the original.
This was on a restoration job, after I handpainted the plate, and lightly sanded to get the raised lettering back, clearcoated, and I used 4/40 buttonheads to reattach (kinda looks like a rivet.) Also used Devcon behind the plate to keep the plate dead tight against the casting, & keep the edges from lifting and allowing chips & swarf getting underneath.
Tony
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