need a whatsit

When I worked at Southcom, Int'l. in the early 1970s, we had them cast in OD-green polycarbonate for our manpack radios.

Google "serrated positioner", or squawk at actual humans at McMaster for more info.

-- Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

It's a "crown gear" of sorts. I don't think you'll find it stock anywhere, but you can certainly make one on a Bridgeport with a dividing head.

You might be able to make the detents by bonding or brazing serrated washers to other parts.

Karl Townsend wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have a 5-axis milling work stop that uses a similar setup. They are cut like bevel gears, but flat, and with a triangular tooth geometry. Haven't a clue what they are called. I tried "indexing washer", but that didn't do it.

For production quantities, I would think they'd have to be cut on a very special machine in the old days. They presumably could be done on a CNC setup nowadays. I find it hard to believe they made them integral to the yoke unless they stamped them.

Doug White

Serrated locking plates, may be overkill, but I also come up with Hirth tooth coupling/rosette, Hirth serration.

(an example of it called a 'rosette')

Dave

These are called Hirth couplings or joints.

Among many other sites see

Thanks everybody. With these ideas and google, I came up with this offer:

How would you bond a 0.160 washer to a metal surface. See my first post for the application.

Karl

Braze it, or something from Locktite or 3M.

Braze it on to a solid surface, or tack-weld the sides (inside and out, TIG or MIG), probably.

-- Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Thanks everybody. With these ideas and google, I came up with this offer:

How would you bond a 0.160 washer to a metal surface. See my first post for the application.

Karl

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Since the washers are heat-treated, and probably plain-carbon steel, you don't want to apply more than 400 deg. F or so to them. A low-temp soft solder, applied very well in a heat-treating oven (or a kitchen oven) ought to give you the temperature control. If you tin the surfaces well and get good coverage, the 5,000+ psi shear strength of soft solder ought to hold you.

Otherwise, epoxy with excellent technique -- scratch it in, and get it as close to 100% coverage as you can. You'll get maximum strength with about a

BTW, George's info on Hirth couplings is excellent, but keep in mind that there are many other couplings of the type, that are generically known as "face gears." Some have straight-sided teeth and some are curved, the most exotic being another patented one (Gleason), known as the Curvic Coupling.

You don't need anything that exotic for this application. Any close-fitting face coupling that *takes up slack as it wears* (in other words, that has symmetrical teeth with angled sides or congruent curved sides) would do it.

That looks like the grooves are in a rectangular pattern rather than radial. If so , you would only be able to lock it at 90 deg. positions. Is that OK for you ?

What am I missing here?? The original post picture appears to be using the "washer" to allow rotational 'indexing'. The Dougstamp swasher appears to be serrated like the checkering on a gun stock. How will this allow the same 'indexing'? IMWTK

Bob rgentry at oz dot net

you're right, plus they are $7 each. So, we're still looking

karl

Jet turbines....