Need some itty bitty machine screws

I'm trying to fix up a 1940s-vintage small-frame Llama. It needs at least one grips screw, though I'd buy a hundred to get that one.
I have 5 of these guns, and most of them have some buggered slots, or threads or both.
The screw I need measures at M3 x .7mm, 5mm long I think I can also use 5-36 US.
Both of those appear to be like hen's teeth. If I can get the thread, I can adjust the length and the head diameter. Need to be slotted pan heads
I have looked at MSC, McMaster-Carr, and Fastenal. I have also dug through my lifetime accumulation of little fasteners until my fingers are raw.
Any suggestions on where I can source those?
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On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 17:06:04 -0800, Rex wrote:

These probably won't pan out, but:
Amazon bought out Small Parts, and still has some of the good stuff.
Also try:
http://microfasteners.com/
http://rtlfasteners.com/
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 7:26:48 PM UTC-6, Tim Wescott wrote:

Tim, I will try those, thanks
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wrote:

Are you sure that is a M3-.7 ? I ask as my tap charts list only a M3-.5 thread. (But perhaps my thread chart is not complete)
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Cheers,

John B.
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On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 9:10:45 PM UTC-6, John B. Slocomb wrote:

John, I have checked and double-checked with a Bausch & Lomb measuring loup. It sure does look like .7, or .75. definitely not .5.
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wrote:

5-40 is standard coarse thread. 5-44 is standard fine thread 5-44 x5/8 is available in binder head - ms-289 3/4" in fillister head is ms-1144 No fine threads listed as available 5-40 1 inch round heads ms-270
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wrote:

If I was appearing to argue I wasn't. My question was due to me not finding a M3-.7 on any of my thread charts. Although I'm sure that my charts do not include every thread that was ever cut :-)
But a metric thread gauge would tell the story. I resisted buying one until I tapped M5 - .8 hole for a M5-.5 screw :-)
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John B.
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wrote:

I can get A2 304 stainless M3X6 or M3X8 with DIN85 pan heads part # 421-137 or 421-042 from Spae Naur in Kitchener Ontario. Call 1-800-265-8772 for their order desk.

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On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 9:53:24 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:

Clare, I did not see those sizes anywhere on the various thread charts I have. I'd buy a few just to try them. I wonder if they have an order minimum?
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wrote:

Not when I walk in to the customer desk and pay cash.. Missed the pitch though, they are .5
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On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 5:06:06 PM UTC-8, Rex wrote:

Odd; 1940s would usually be post-standardization, and the M3 x 0.7 thread is an oddball. Could it be M3.5 x 0.6? Or M4 x 0.7? There's also 5-40, but I've only ever seen that in lefthand...
It sounds like you might have to warm up a lathe and turn them out yourself. Panhead and slotted is the easy part.
Make a few dozen extras, and you can offer 'em on eBay to others that might want to do restorations.
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 12:48:04 -0800, whit3rd wrote:

5-40 is the thread size of the prop screw on Cox 049 engines. I have a bag of them for that reason.
It's also popular with railroad modelers, because it's nominal diameter is 1/8", and so perfect if you're doing a 1/8 scale model of a locomotive with 1" bolts.
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Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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#5 screws will temporarily assemble sheet metal panels prior to riveting, if you don't have Clecos. -jsw
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On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 5:24:00 PM UTC-6, Tim Wescott wrote:

there's a model railroading shop on the way to Mom's house, maybe I'll run by there. Good suggestion, thanks
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 17:47:42 -0800, Rex wrote:

Let us know how it pans out. 1/8 scale model train enthusiasts aren't going to have many brick-and-mortar shops catering to them: that's the scale where you go to some special park and find guys riding the tender behind the engine, with a track gauge that's a bit over six inches.
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Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 2:48:07 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:

That's a last resort. I'm no machinist, but I'd give it a shot if I have to. If I find a way to source these, or make them, I'll definitely make some extras.
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 17:46:43 -0800 (PST)

<<snip>>

Being you said they were for the grips and shouldn't be important safety wise...
I talented weldor may be able to tig over the screw head. Then you could cut a new slot in the old screw. I was thinking to turn/clamp the screw threads in a heavy block of steel, maybe cast iron to suck heat away from the thread portion and then tig, reform the top. Maybe use stainless filler rod?
Hopefully some of the tig wizards in the group will chime in if they have tried anything like this or not...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 6:51:37 AM UTC-6, Leon Fisk wrote:

The heads aren't that much of an issue. A few are burred, but can be dressed with a file and re-blued. The immediate issue is an otherwise complete gun needing one (1) screw. Well, that and a recoil spring, but I'm working that with Wolff
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If it measures M3 x 0.7mm, the 5-40 thread, at M3.175 x 0.635mm is the closest. You ought to at least buy a few and try that size...
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Taps make pretty good thread gauges for both holes and screws. They don't need to be good or expensive to clean up old tapped holes.
Does the thread match that of an M4 x 0.7 screw when you hold both together in front of a light? -jsw
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