Newbie with questions

Curt Martin wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@nospam.net:

I would stick with Lincoln or Miller. Both offer a range of good 110V mig welders that will work fine for sheet metal. I suggest you lease a tank, that way when the tank expires, you don't have to buy a new one, plus when you go to get refilled, you simply exchange your tank for one that is full, rather than have to wait on them to fill yours. Flux core wire produces a LOT of splatter, not good for automotive type sheet metal work. Get the tank and use gas. co2/argon mix will work fine.

You can't go wrong with Lincoln or Miller equipment. Some people have had good experience with other brands, ymmv. Do a google search on rcm on welder and you'll get a ton of information.

Tank policies vary widely depending on location and local dealers. My local AGA dealers will only sell tanks Q size and smaller, anything larger is leased. I'm leasing a larger tank now, and my lease payments have already exceeded the value of the tank. On the plus side, it is cheaper to fill larger tanks. Check around with your local welding stores and see what their policy is.

Paul

If you want to do good work, get good tools. Now, you can go down and buy cheap-o hammers and dollies at HF. But we are talking about the crux of the whole toolshed here. Buy a Miller or Lincoln welder, and you will be able to do better work.

Last week, we moved the washing machine and dryer from where it was to where it is. I built a 28"x32"x3" pan for it to sit in with a drain in case it ever leaked. I made the pan out of some 22ga. that I had sitting around. I lapped the corners, and then made a series of about 25 spot welds on each seam with my Lincoln 175SP+. I put water in and tested it, and not one leak. This is how good a good MIG machine welds.

The problem with MIGs are not the cost. You can go out and buy off brands from good manufacturers. Like Campbell-Hausfield, Snap-On, Craftsman, and others. Then there are just the Cheap-O models that are cheap plastic. Some of the models are made by Lincoln and Miller, and some of the others are made by Chinese prisoners.

Point is? With the Cheap-Os, two months/six months/ a year from now, when you need a tip, or a nozzle, or some part, where can you get it? You might be lucky and find it. You may not. The dealer might not carry that model any more. The dealer might not stock parts. In the meantime, your operation is shut down. You will have a whole lot better service and luck, measured in degrees of magnitude, with a Lincoln or Miller. Plus, later on, you will have a cruddy welder you will be selling cheap, and go out and have to buy a good one.

BUY A GOOD ONE FROM THE START. You can skimp on a lot of other tools, but you want the welder to work right EVERY TIME!

You will have to check with the local supplier on their policies on bottles. I own two, about a little higher than the kneecap. I do this so that I never run out. I always have a spare. Keep extra tips, nozzles, and parts, too, because you won't lose time going for parts when you need them.

You are going to do what you want. I, personally, would save the $$$ or get it some way and get the better machine from the get go. A Lincoln 135 would do all you want, and with everything, probably cost you $750. AND work first time every time.

Steve

Thanks for the info. I pulled up some other web sites lst night and started looking at Lincooln, Miller and Hobart. Of those three, Hobart is closest to what I was planning on spending, with Lincoln a little higher. Miller looked to be mostly out of my range. I think a 135 amp set up is prbably best for my needs, so I will go search the web again and focus on lincoln. What about Hobart? I found a 135 that looks like it would work for me, but I haven't heard anyone mention them by name. Thanks again - Curt

Hobart is now owned by the same company that owns Miller. Some Hobart machines are now made on Miller production lines and vice versa. In the past when they were separate companies, they competed vigorously, and both made good machines. Now, the Miller name is used on the high end machines from both companies, while the Hobart name is being positioned as a lower price alternative.

But Hobart branded machines are still good. The differences between them and the ones with the Miller nameplate are generally minor, and of no consequence for your purposes.

Gary

I once did a fair amount of "rust work" on several cars. I found continuous heat control (not just 4 steps) to be a great help when working with sheetmetal. It made things a LOT easier. I used a Lincoln SP125 plus and liked it a lot.

I once visited a pro restoration shop that did high-buck restorations (Jags, Lotuses, etc) and noted that there was a Linc SP125 at about every workstation. This was a shop with real metalworkers. There was *no* bondo in the place and very little lead was used either. They had shrinkers and stretchers, didn't see an English wheel but they probably had one.

I have a MillerMatic 135 amp, 120volt welder, and it's a great machine. I would encourage you to go to your local welding supply and haggle a price with them, versus buying one off the net somewhere. You'll make a new friend and you'll have a source of future welding goods at good prices. If you choose to net-buy, Indiana Oxygen has great prices, find them on Ebay.

For me it came down to Lincoln or Miller, and I went with the Miller simply because it has metal drive wheels and a metal wire drive assembly versus the plastic in the Lincoln. Overall the Miller cost me about $100 more than the Lincoln, but you're talking about a tool that will last your LIFETIME. I have a friend that's working with a Miller that's over 15 years of "hard-use" old, and has never hiccuped once. These aren't disposable machines, and if you get a Lincoln or Miller, they'll always have parts available and that's what you want. Buy the best you can afford to buy and you'll be glad you did.

Ronnie