Likely the lubricant between the 2 part has congealed or it has rusted. You'll need to dismantle it and clean it up, re-lube and put it back together. I posted the same on the 28th but I guess you didn't see it.
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What he said. Set the engine to a definite position like #1 TDC and note the rotor and distributor's position when its gear disengages. Take some pix before you disassemble the advance unless the manual shows reassembly clearly.
Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works.
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Advancement works in strange ways. I had to install a 2 line phone in a senior NCO's office before they would submit my promotion to sergeant. The standard joke is about having to get down on your knees, and I really did to connect the wires.
Right. Sorry. I read stuff. (Even in the service manual.) And it makes no sense to me. I move on in the hope that it will make sense in the future.
Anyway taking off the cover it was indeed rusted underneath. I scrubbed with toothbrush and kerosene and it's now getting a kerosene soak for the night.
George H.
Right. Sorry. I read stuff. (Even in the service manual.) And it makes no sense to me. I move on in the hope that it will make sense in the future.
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Which is the problem we face when writing explanations in text-only r.c.m.
I'm by nature a visual learner and have difficulty reducing multidimensional concepts to linear text, so I practice here. Scientists and engineers explain things to each other by sketching and are nearly helpless when they can't.
At a Mensa meeting the speaker dropped into a boring monotone and then suddenly said ELEPHANT, and asked us what immediately came to mind. Everyone but me reported either the word or an image. I was the only one who saw both, a captioned color picture of an elephant pulling down a tree branch.
Thanks for the TO20 recommendation. I used my machine shop to build a hydraulic front end loader attachment for my 18HP garden tractor to clear snow, for which it worked quite well, however the tractor isn't heavy or strong enough to more than scratch at our rocky New England soil.
====================================================== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around:
The visible trailer tire is the one I had trouble with. Once sunlight returned I could see a forest of fine whiskers of molding sprue rubber in the bead area, at least two of which had been squished radially between the rim and bead over its full width and left indented channels which may have been the slow leak path. I snipped off the sprues, smeared latex along the bead, remounted the tire without a tube, and it's holding pressure.
My error was not inflating and deflating the tube to position it before levering the bead back into the rim. A tire lever pinched the still folded tube. I should have fixed the air compressor -before- tackling the tire. With luck the large round patch in the kit I bought will salvage the tube.
====================================================== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around:
Yeah I'm totally a visual learner*. A exploded view of all my tractor parts.. (or just the distributor (D)) would be a wonderful thing. After soaking over night I put some vise grips on the D's rotating shaft and got it to give a bit.. but it's tight. I found this oil plug felt, top center of shaft and maybe I can blow some air down in there?
George H.
*words are slippery things, they slip and flip around on the way from my brain to my voice, and from my ears / eyes to my brain.
Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor.
George H.
Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor.
George H.
================================================= I tried to learn stick welding in college but didn't really get it. When area voc-techs began offering adult night classes I took machining and welding classes repeatedly until I could do something useful without an instructor looking over my shoulder, observing and correcting my mistakes which a video can't do.
Before welding the main frame for that loader, a U of 2" square tubing that holds the oil, I used all but the last session to practice welding butt joints with 7018 rod, and then bending them to destruction with the shop's
50 ton press. Once I had full but not excessive bead penetration from one side and could fold the test samples double along the weld without cracking I welded the frame. I'm still very far from being a good welder.7018 absorbs moisture unless stored air-tight. Of the rods that can be stored open I found 6013 and 7014 the easiest and neatest. I didn't do very well with 6011.
Besides the welder you need something to cut steel. I bought a used 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw of better than their average quality to cut bar and tubing stock squarely and accurately. In the vertical position it can cut flat plate free-hand, limited by the minimal left side clearance to the frame. An abrasive chop saw also works, but not a wood-cutting bandsaw unless you reduce its speed to 1/10th.
My favorite youtuber and has his own website is Jody:
Your 6011 1/8 rods should be fine for getting started :)
Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor.
George H.
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There are "Lawn", "Yard" and "Garden" tractors, in order of increasing ruggedness. That is a Garden tractor with a substantial ladder frame and a low range in the manual transmission, meant to pull a small plow behind or carry a dozer blade or snow blower attachment on the front. The rear ag tires are the same size as the original turf treads. I started with a Lawn tractor whose stamped sheet metal chassis disintegrated from the stress of pulling that trailer through the woods. My neighbor has a Yard tractor with more HP but significantly less pulling power than mine.
I also inherited the 2005 replacement for that 1987 tractor. It differs from a Yard tractor in not having mulching or bagger attachments. Neither turns tightly enough to be a really good lawn mower. That's fine, I don't have a really good lawn.
Thanks I'll check him out. I figure there's lotsa stuff I'd like to do that is just filling in rusted out steel. An old snow plow number one on the list. Like filling in rotted out wood there's an endless list of projects.
George H.
Hah, we're having a hard time getting the arc going with out sticking the rod to the piece. "Stop, stuck the rod again" says my son. :^) It's kinda like sticking the landing in ice skating.. but opposite. Once going he seems to be much better (than me) at laying down a nice bead.
Thanks for that. Well a new order of 6011 is on the way and will be here soon. We'll see if that works any better. I was trying to talk my son into a night class or something... there's a place 'up the road' near Rochester NY. We'll see. Most of what I want to do is crude 'farm' repair. He has more ambitious dreams (which is fine) of building stuff.
Re: bandsaw and cutting. At home I've only used the reciprocating saw (~sawzall) with a metal blade. (slow)
George H.
Re: bandsaw and cutting. At home I've only used the reciprocating saw (~sawzall) with a metal blade. (slow)
George H. ===============================
The nearly essential power tool for welding is an angle grinder. I have a
4-1/2" one for precision and control, and a 7" one for speed. A decent quality 4-1/2" is a good start. They grind or wire-brush through rust quickly and are the eraser for your welding mistakes. They can slice steel free-hand with a cut-off blade, or you can buy a holder that turns them into a small chop saw for better accuracy. They soon pay back their cost in the clothing (and skin) that wasn't ripped by rough cut edges and welds. They are quite versatile, mine has cut concrete sewer pipe and smoothed a rough stone step.A bandsaw is better for thicker steel like building a hydraulic log splitter, abrasive disks are good for thinner metal such as EMT conduit or corrugated roofing that could strip saw blade teeth. Both can cut 1/8" angle iron or water pipe.
George, do the tuneup with points and condenser, and put in new plugs. Now that it's running correctly, check the plugs at 5 hours and see if there is still black fried gunk on 'em. That could indicate oil burning. Black soot is a rich carb condition. Go from there.
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