I would like to add a one-shot oiler to my mill, but I don't want to
pay >$300 for a Bijur system because it seems like something I could
make with little difficulty.
Anyone know how the flow from the single piston pump is metered to
the several individual lube points? Are those just orifices? If
so, anyone know about what size these orifices might be? The target
machine is a Bridgeport J-head mill with 9 x 42 table. The lube
points are all there with zerks but some of them are a bit of a PITA
to get at.
No they are not just orifices. They are little check valves with a
spring and a plunger so that for each pulse of the pump exactly one
drop is released. There is also a screen in there. On machines that
have sat too long these gell up easy and have to be replaced. I just
though I'd mention it for those who want to buy old CNC machines.
I've seen good machines ruined because of no lubricant flow to the
I replaced all the metering fitting on an Excelo HBM with orifices
then checked for flow every where. Worked pretty good. Used up the
way-ube faster and more of the lube got in the sump though. If you
want a lot of lube and don't mind the extra mess then making you own
The one shot oilers are designed so that every lube point gets the
proper amount of oil.
It takes about 50 lbs of pressure to activate all the oilers in the
system. The metered oilers themselves are rated in the quantity of oil
delivered by a number stamped on them. 3/0, 2/0, 1/0 and 1 to 5. This
allows you to put more oil in the places where more oil is needed and
less on surfaces like the knee slides. You can clean the metered
fittings with solvent but you better check them by pumping oil through
them. Also make sure the little arrow stamped on the side of them is
pointing in the direction of the oil flow. The metered fittings are made
in all different configurations so beware. Ive seen ways ruined because
someone mixed up the metered fittings.
Bijur makes metered fittings and also continious flow orifices. The
continious flow orifices run at a lot lower pressure and are not as
widely used as the metered fittings.
Any pump would work with the metered fittings as long as it has a relief
valve or some way to bleed off the pressure or the metered fitting will
Hey Don. The teacher at school is considering putting one-shot oilers
on the other 2 or 3 mills and I couldn't get any reply from Bijur
via e-mail. Do you have any ideas on how to go about getting the parts
to do the mods?
OK, that's helpful. Any idea how many cm^3 (or whatever) of oil each
size meter delivers per shot? Also, which sizes are typically used
on the various fittings on a B'Port J-head manual mill?
Perhaps for a one-off HSM job it'd be easier to make a little manifold
of little pumps that can be individually actuated. Perhaps those could
just be holes in a block, each with a little checkvalve and piston.
It's not hard to tell when (and where) my mill needs a bit of lube: I
can feel the increased drag on the cranks, at least in X and Y and I
don't move the knee all that often.
Can said pump push a rod ? Spec so. Have a 'bucket' within the rod
and have it pass over a drain hole. Have it fill up on one end and if
you want it slower then have a timer that turns on when the rod drops the
oil - e.g. extended - stopping the motor until the time out occurs.
Something like that ?
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
D> I would like to add a one-shot oiler to my mill, but I don't want to
Enco sells the pumps for $43 (Enco) and maybe twice that for Bijur but
there is no mention of metering units.
Keep us posted on what you find out. They don't look difficult to
make, but I wouldn't mind buying them if they're anything like
On the other hand, I don't have to be "practical" so I'm sorta leaning
toward a manifold of individual very small pumps so I can lubricate
just what needs lube when it needs it and perhaps minimize periodic
cleanup of excess oil. Ball bearing checkvalves certainly aren't hard
to make, nor reamed holes with pistons that fit close enough to do
the job, maybe with O-ring or teflon seals though I doubt that would
even be necessary. I'm thinking something like the little plungers
found on small bottle jacks and grease guns, maybe even scaled down
You should be able to find everything you need by contacting these people:
Emrick Machinery Sales
2626 East Jensen Ave.
Fresno CA 93706
(559) 233-4834 (fax)
They have a web site with all the pertinent information----but I don't
recall how I found it. Armed with the name, if you do a search for Bijur,
I think you'll find them.
You can expect to pay anywhere from $8 to $10 per unit, and you'd need 10
of them if you duplicate a factory installation. I recently had to
replace all of mine because my mill sat idle for years. John mentioned
that they gel up. He's right. Soaking them endlessly in various strong
solvents had no effect. Replacement, in my case, was the only thing that
Pull the orifices, and attach each one to a grease gun filled with
kerosene. Be sure to pump into the proper end.
Pump as necessary, then remove and dump into a coffee can filled with
Kero for a day or two.
Repeat with greasegun as necessary. This will blow out the spooge
Never worry about theory as long as the machinery does what it's supposed to do.
Robert A. Heinlein
I have all the info at the shop and a full stock of bijur parts since I
do commercial maintenance on cnc and manual machines. I will not clean
the fittings in a customers machine, only replace with new ones. I
recommend cleaning out your lube oil reservoir every couple of months to
get any bacterial growth out of it. I remove all the oil lines at the
metering fitting and flush the system with a mixture of light oil and
kerosene to remove any crap in the lines before I replace the fittings.
Also an antibacterial agent would help too. Be sure not to get any
water in the bottom. One drop will set up a colony of bacteria that
feed on the oil and live in the water and generate a snot that will clog
up everything. On a genuine bijur pump there is a filter screen on the
bottom of the pump that will get clogged. They are easy to clean but the
felt should be replaced.
This site should have all the info on the bijur metering fittings.
A lot of machines use grease rather than oil. Just make sure your ways
are not going to get any fines on them or you will have a gob grinding
compound when the metal fines and the grease mix. Oil is less likely to
hold the metal fines but rather flush them away.
Thank you, Harold! That's what I wanted to know. That cost seems
reasonable enough. I'm now leaning toward "lube as needed where
needed when needed" rather than "lube everything when anything needs
it and clean up the surplus", though I certainly see the merit of the
latter approach in a real working shop or school shop.
I'll bet you could clean out gelled and clogged metering gizmos by
forcing solvent thru them backwards with a greasgun, but for a guy
whose time is money it surely makes more sense to replace them.
I see from Bijur's website that they have little filters in them,
probably sintered metal. If those are what get clogged, then applying
solvent with backpressure might just blow the clogged filter out so
you'd need a new one anyway.
I'm thinking hand-operated pump(s), no motors or electronics. Think
little permanantly-plumbed greasguns shooting shots of oil. KISS.
Guilty admission: I have been lubricating my mill for 20 years with a
greasegun and moly-D grease. (Chorus of anguished screams and jeers
My only defense is that it has worked out OK, grease hasn't turned to
glue in situ so far. Mr. B tells me when he'd like a shot of lube
here or there, I accommodate and he resumes moving very nicely indeed
-- though fuggedaboudit if the temp in the shop drops much below 55.
That said, I am about ready to repent and reform with injections of
way oil rather than good grease.
Having dismantled the original fittings once (no---they're not intended to
be dismantled. They're swaged closed), I concluded that almost anything you
try is a waste of time----there's a felt filter inside that gets varnished.
All the solvent in the world wouldn't break it down to satisfaction, but
once removed and crushed well, the crud was liberated. That after soaking
them for a couple days in various solvents, all with no effect.
Once cleaned by dismantling, they didn't last long when put back in service.
It's almost as if once they've formed the varnish, it's a catalyst for more.
When I replaced them, I forced 1,1,1, trichloroethane through the system,
then blew it out with air. Filtered all the Vactra on hand through a lab
filter (left over from my gold refining days), and started from scratch with
new metering ports. Best thing I ever did. It is painfully obvious that
the machine had gone into a decline and was not getting everything properly
oiled. Considering the consequences of not oiling where needed, even as
cheap as I am, and I'm damned close to the dollar, I wouldn't recommend
cleaning them. Even if you can re-establish flow, it may not be proper.
Where did you get the parts for your system? I've got an Excello
vertical mill which works pretty well but the oiling system leaks like
a sieve. I've taken apart the compression fittings a couple times at
the manifolds, but they seem to be some weird fitting. That's not to
mention the head, which has a nasty habit of puking oil at inopportune
moments, like when I'm tilting it for some weird setup.