Opinions on this bandsaw?

I replaced my metal cutting bandsaw with a dry saw.

Pro:

• Dry saw makes square cuts in both normal and miter styles. I never could make my bandsaw cut square.

• Dry saw is >4x faster for a given cut.

• After many, many cuts, you will be unable to keep any bandsaw blade on the top idler wheel. Slips right off, no matter the adjustment.

Con:

• Bandsaw is quieter than the cold saw.

• Cold saw kerf is wider than that of the bandsaw.

• 2.5 bandsaws cost about the same as a cold saw.

Summing up, I was pleased to have the bandsaw, but I am really happy with the cold saw. Mine is the Makita LC1230. Dewalt, Millwakee, Porter Cable are rumored to have cold saws as well.

--Winston

I have one much like it - just not G based. I've used it for years.

One thing, it is stronger, and less apt to bend or sway under cut. The fluid really helps - the teeth do get hot - and it helps clean the teach in wire brushes.

What I did on mine was to put an in-line filter - used a hydrollic filter as you will need the head and the filter - auto oil types require making a unique adapter box. The filter keeps the small metal flakes from banging into the teeth and dulling them down. Seems to work. Also - it limits the buildup in the teeth and thus jams.

By all means buy this type not the dry if you can.

Martin

I use a dry cut blade in my table saw. I continue to be absolutely amazed by the way it cuts. Yesterday I made a 13" cut in 1/4 plate in

I have a couple of pictures:

I'm using a 7 1/4" blade ($40 shipped from Medford Tool) in a 10" saw. You do need the bigger saw for the horsepower (1 1/2 IIRC). And I always use a panel-cutter/sled for the cuts.

Another example: the other day I was cutting a PC case and made a mis-cut. It was off by a 1/16 tapering to nothing over 7". The old way to fix it was to grind it off. But I put it on the table saw and sawed it straight in a couple of seconds. And the fix was straight, square, smooth, and dead-on.

I'm a believer. Thank you Ernie for the tip.

Bob

Hi Winston, Why would this happen unless the frame was bent or the bearings shot on the idler wheel?

Jim Kovar Vulcan, Mi

You are probably right. I bought the saw new and used the heck out of it over ~12 years. As the top bearing experienced wear, I could always adjust it back to track properly using the bolts in the back of the idler wheel. After a few years I couldn't keep a blade on it no matter what I did with the adjuster.

Having tried several time-consuming fixes, I just tossed the thing.

So I could have popped off the idler wheel, swapped out a bronze bearing and run that thing for another 12 years? Ya learn something new ever' day.

Perhaps Grant could include this in his excellent FAQ:

--Winston