OT: Anyone here troubleshot X-10 signal problems?

I run a TM751 RF transceiver with HR12A keypads, AM466 appliance modules (better for CFLs), and lamp modules for my home automation
lighting setup. Recently, most of the modules stopped working. Only the A1 (default for the transceiver) seemed to work properly. Then I noticed that the next closest module for my LED undercabinet lighting was still working. It's about 8' away from the xceiver on the same circuit. Other modules work in the socket, too.
Everything points to something dampening the sig from the xceiver, but how do I check that? Alas, I have no O-scope here.
I recently added 22k resistors to the input of many of the lamp and appliance modules, but everything was working for several weeks afterward, so I'm wont to rule that out.
Anyone here familiar with X-10? Clues would be appreciated.
Oh, I also waited until the fridge and heater were both off to test the working of the modules, thinking they might be producing enough noise to kill the DC sig on the AC line. That made no difference.
I have another TM751 around here somewhere but haven't been able to find it to test with it.
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On 11/27/2013 15:26, Larry Jaques wrote:

Had a kind of similar problem with my garage door opener. Turned out the wireless remote doorbell switch battery was low, and was transmitting all the time, but not enough to trigger the doorbell. Changed the battery, and all was well.
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On 11/27/2013 12:26 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

What exactly did you do? Why?

Anything resistive 220VAC like water heater, stove, space heaters probably improves the signal by coupling across phases.
Obvious troubleshooting procedure is to unplug stuff until the problem goes away. Can't just turn stuff off, have to unplug it. I've got wall warts that put out way more line noise when not connected to the load.
Some power strips have line filters that can disrupt X10.
I put a cap across the line in the dryer. Helped the cross-phase coupling until it exploded a few years later. Now, I use two RF receivers, one on each phase. I thought they might conflict, but so far, working fine.

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Standard mod to keep X-10 module from turning back on when switched off with a CFL or other fluor bulb plugged into it. Inductive bounce, I think, where bulb flashes every second or three after it was shut off. The link I used (jeffvolp.home.att.net) is no longer up and I can't find my local copy.

All outlets had been working previously. I have a phase coupler, too, in addition to the 220v water heater and stove.

Interesting. Curiously enough, I hadn't added anything to any outlet since the LEDs for the kitchen, and that's one item which still works. Hmm, I hadn't unplugged the 120-12v xfmr yet...no joy. I also hadn't removed the batteries from the other SS13A stick-on wall controllers. No joy. Removed batteries from newer HR12A...no joy.
Oh, this is interesting. The appliance module I used for the 20W LED over my bed will work on 2 other outlets in my room but NOT the one I had it plugged into. And it now works with the light unplugged. I'm now reading pages saying that the modules want at least 60W to work properly, but why were they working fine and now stopped, both at the same time? Damnit. <sizzle>

I have the PowerLinc 1132B, too. But what happened recently to kill my signals or whatever? Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Frustrating.
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wrote:

[snip]

This is a long shot, but ... If you and a neighbor share the same transformer (pole pig or ground box), it's possible they have added (and removed?) something which is loading one of your phases and killing the X10 signal. Art
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X10 does not use DC signaling on the AC line, but uses 120KHz bursts at the zero crossings of the 50/60Hz power freq.
What did you add *recently*? Anything with a switching power supply? Those have capacitors on the inputs to filter the switching noise and keep it out of the lines. Computers, TVs, laptop supplies, outlet strips (those with noise filtering), etc are all likely culprits. These will seriously reduce the level of the X10 signal on whichever phase they are on. BTDT. CFLs can inject noise on the line. If you find the culprit(s) adding a plug in filter between it and the outlet frequently will solve the problem. Adding an active or passive signal bridge between the 2 phases often is a big help, but do the above first.
Art
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Our experience with High Frequency interference was the new Microwave.
When it turns on, it blanks out the wireless 802.11 A/G.
Our heavy to tote unit died and a new hold in one hand. A unshielded switcher. I installed long wires in old school and everything went back to the good side.
Might be a simple device just added. A florescent or LED light bulb....
Martin
On 11/27/2013 7:17 PM, Artemus wrote:

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On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 22:16:30 -0600, Martin Eastburn

The only bulb I've changed in months is the 7W night light in the bathroom. Removed it and tried everything again: no joy. No new electronics or electrics have been added, either. Well, the damned thing works now with a 75W Reveal bulb in it. <sigh> Automation likes inefficiency? >

Nothing but the night light. Everything worked with the new phones 8 month ago. No other new wall warts are installed. Wait, I did install a new power strip in the bedroom outlet, but that was 3 months ago and everything worked up until 2 weeks ago. I just removed it from the circuit and got no change, no joy.
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