OT- concrete help

I've got a fair bit of experience forming and placing (NOT pouring!) flat slabs with and without foundations.

But I've never figured out a particular trick -- placing a slab with a distinct "step down", like from a house to a garage.

I am about to prep a floating slab for a new addition, and I need a 3-1/2" stepdown from house to garage. I can see the rationale -- 2x4 lumber forms the step. But I don't figure how I can keep the concrete from slumping past the form, bulging up past the bottom, or how to keep the form anchored during placement.

I'm sure someone on this forum knows how or knows where to find out how this can be done well. How can I keep a clean and sharp surface on everything, without "stake pockets" in the mud? Any help?

Thanks, The pyrotechnics-automation guy, LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
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Can you not pour the lower layer, allow it to set, then pour a 3.5" layer on top? Just a thought - I'm not a concrete expert and I don't know all the details of your project.

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

Lloyd, just as hint, concrete porch steps are made with the form upside down and then put into place after the concrete has hardened.

Harry C.

Reply to
hhc314

Forms are generally held in place with stakes (to the *outside* of the intended step) and the concrete is poured a bit "stiff" to prevent the slumping under the form. Fill up the area of the raised step first with the stiff mix, screeding it off as necessary - and tapping on the outside of the form lumber to give you a nice smooth face after the form lumber is removed. Pour the rest of the slab after the step is poured (and the crete is watered down just a little bit) saving a bit to fill up the holes left by the "step form stakes". Of course this is based on how big the remaining slab is. Sometimes you can support the "step forms" from above or from the sides so the form can be removed the next day or so without any "stakes" or "holes from stakes" showing. HTH Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

If you can, form the step using a braced 2x4 (think 2x4 angle iron) supported on both ends ouside the pour. If not, use 2 (maybe 3 if it's over 10 feet) steel concrete stakes (cost about $3 each at a concrete supplies place, substitute is 1/2" pipe with suitable nail holes) Bevel the lower edge at 45 degrees so there is only about 1/4" of regular surface left.

Have your redi mix truck give you some very low slump mix for the the step area, pour that first. Then have him add some water and pour the rest of the slab. By the time you get back to the step area, you can pull the stakes, scree and float. You might want to brace the form with a l> I've got a fair bit of experience forming and placing (NOT pouring!) flat

Reply to
RoyJ

Lots of steps are cast in place . Basic stuff for on commercial sires . The forms are built in place and the concrete stays at the various levels without any problem . Ken Cutt

Reply to
Ken Cutt

My uncle built steps to his basement. He used wire for reinforcing and a rather dry mix. I don't remember if he used any forms but you can "plaster" the wire with concrete. Concrete boats are built this way.

Good luck. Bill K7NOM

Reply to
Bill Janssen

Hey Lloyd,

I'd form it ALL up, pour the pad near the step first, then pour the remainder of the pad, then pour the step when the pad part starts to set up a bit. Don't vibrate too much. You can also put a stiff plywood "cover" over the part where you think it might raise the pad, to help make sure it stays down.

Or of course you could just do two pours.

Take care.

Brian Laws>I've got a fair bit of experience forming and placing (NOT pouring!) flat

Reply to
Brian Lawson

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