How to build a file rack?

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good 75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill bastards etc etc
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each other..not a good thing.
What method have yall found to be really good for storing files, ready for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some years ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of the other files came with handles.
Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps are pretty big.
Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them from spikes..but not all do.
I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and not have to hunt for them.
Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.
Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?
Thanks!
Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a bit of rust on one or 3
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On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner wrote:

I slide them into bits of bicycle inner tube. But I only have a dozen files.
Dunno about sharpening -- I'd like to hear the answer.
When my dad did a lot of bodywork he sent his files out to be sharpened by a guy that reground them, and was pretty contemptuous of the folks that used acid -- but lead files are much coarser than regular files, and none of the ones I saw were diamond pattern.
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sniop--

Sharpening a Vixen file is one hell of a lot different than trying to sharpen a mill bastard. Acid really is the only choice, so long as you address the hydrogen embrittlement that results from its use.
If you make the decision to use acid, give your files a roast at 375 degrees for a couple hours afterwards, to eliminate hydrogen. Sulfuric, nitric or hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid will do the job. Might be hard to get nitric, however.
Don't use any of these acids in your shop. The resulting fumes rust the hell out of everything ferrous.
Harold
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nd

ees

ric,

Muriatic acid is also a great drain cleaner after using bleach for some odd weeks. Also, after you wash your car, using muriatic acid on the hub caps will give them such a shine that its like they will glow.
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snip-- Also, after you wash your car, using muriatic acid on the hub caps will give them such a shine that its like they will glow. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why anyone in their right mind would use hydrochloric acid on anything they didn't want to rust is beyond me. I give your idea a definite thumbs down. The damage caused isn't worth the short lived shine.
Harold
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You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?
If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard to help keep it clean.
Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.
Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening, anyway. In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.
That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid. Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).
You etch JUST the right length of time with JUST the right amount of agitation to undercut those protected edges.
It never worked for me, and to hear old guys tell it, it never worked all that well, anyway.
Lloyd
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On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

If you're filing aluminum, you don't need chalk. That's for filing steel.
With aluminum, just oil your file. Or spray it with WD-40 -- one of the few uses for WD-40 that's worthwhile. <g>
I keep separate files for aluminum and brass versus steel, for just that reason. Once you've oiled a file you REALLY have to strip it clean before using it on steel or it will skate, as you're well aware. An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.

Nitric is much better for sharpening files. Yes, I've used both. Nitric takes a faster bite, and seems to be less inclined to preferentially round the cutting edge. It bites everywhere.
I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the garage.
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No, but it will get oil on the work. Sometimes you don't want that. I'll oil if I'm roughing, but chalk when I'm working with clean, nearly finished stuff -- even aluminum.
I, too, keep separate files for separate work... but sometimes the roles and treatments blend a little. Lloyd
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On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 11:33:51 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

That's true, but we get oil on work all the time in many types of metalworking. I've never considered it to be a hardship with filing, but then again...

Sure. Most of my files are kept dry, and I chalk them if I'm getting any pinning. But I'll oil them when I'm just working on aluminum or brass.
The file cuts cleaner and easier, too.
--
Ed Huntress

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a
d
of

> I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the garage.
Yeah, the stuff and aluminum in any form can cause fires, too.
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d a

in

ard

m.

ce of

d.

That's why I dislike the electrical industry, because they approved of aluminum wiring. It can cause fires easier than copper.
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wrote:

snip----
I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the garage.
Yeah, the stuff and aluminum in any form can cause fires, too. ------------------------------------------------------------ Don't think so. Nitric (a strong oxidizer) does not dissolve aluminum, therefore it (aluminum) does not contribute to fires.
Harold
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On 3/1/2013 8:56 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

They will be sharper after an acid bath, but they won't cut flat anymore.
MikeB
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wrote:

Right. It's a last-ditch procedure to give them a little more life for rough work.
I haven't done it for 30 years, since I inherited a pile of new, unused files.
--
Ed Huntress

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On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Sure I have. The problem was...the previous owners didnt from the looks of things.

Thanks for the info. I know a couple companies out there do that ..cheap enough. I just didnt know how effective it was
Gunner
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On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

So, time to make a bunch of knives?
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wrote:

I've seen references to "sharpening" files in a vinegar bath, pickling vinegar was mentioned which I believe is stronger then table vinegar. And, also reference to "battery acid". Apparently a variety of acids work.
--
Cheers,

John B.
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> vinegar was mentioned which I believe is stronger then table vinegar.

And brake fluid, nail polish remover, white gas or isoprop. alcohol.
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I have no good suggestions for storing.
As far as handles, I get golf balls at garage sales , drill a hole in themo and use them for handles. Maybe not as good as regular file handles, but much better than no handle. And the price is right.
Dan
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snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote:

PVC tubes mounted on the side of the workbench work for me to store files. remember to put a cap on the bottom end of the tube.
John
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