I should point out that only the jar goes in the water. Also, I usually do this with the jar unscrewed from the sprayer, and screw it up into the sprayer after it's hot. But if you have the right size pan, it's easier to do it with the whole thing assembled.
Don't forget the dishtowel.
-- Ed Huntress
I've been using a half-face mask from Draeger with the appropriate filter cartridges while spraying the HLV that I'm still doing up. Using Isocyanate hardened paint. The mask even gives a decent seal over my straggly beard and works well enough that I cannot even smell the paint when spraying.
Doesn't stop the symptoms when you do a stupid and spill hardener on your hands after forgetting your gloves though...
Mark Rand RTFM
The local O'Reilly's auto store was willing to shake up a quarter of a pint (half a cup) of paint for me. I got a pint which turned out to be much more than I needed. It was quite expensive, though, about $25 or so.
Terry
I got a quote on touchup paint for a customer's wheelchair the other day. It was only $75.00 for a one ounce bottle. Better he should lightly sand the thing and buy a couple of modelers' spray cans of Candy Apple Red and repaint the whole chair -- or just gold plate it.
I can not remember the brand right now, but I think it was an appliance company. Anyway they had a one part spray can epoxy that we used to spray on the heads of staples. We then stapled paneling to 2 by 4s . And the paint did not chip off. The spray cans were not Rustoleum or Krylon. MIght have been Sherwin-Williams. It was recommended by the guy that sold the staples. Sorry I can not remember the brand.
Dan
On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 10:28:25 -0700, the infamous Gone Fishin' scrawled the following:
Maybe he meant that the Badger used an air can.
Maybe he was referring to a Critter, as some guys on the Wreck liked.
-- Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters. --Daniel Webster
On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 13:43:09 -0400, the infamous "Ed Huntress" scrawled the following:
I run a bit of propane into a paint can if I need to keep it around for a long while. I learned that after letting a gallon of Waterlox gel up on me. It's far cheaper than Bloxygen. I now have a tank of argon, so that'll likely be used next time.
-- Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters. --Daniel Webster
On Wed, 02 Sep 2009 20:20:30 -0400, the infamous John Husvar scrawled the following:
Don't you just _love_ people who take advantage of the disadvantaged?
Anything medical is automatically 10x the price.
-- Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters. --Daniel Webster
My experience with this is from painting dozens of motorcycle engine cases and cylinder fins about 30 years ago, so it may or may not apply here, but here's what I did.:
After glass beading the surface, clean it with ATF followed by CRC BraKleen. Warm the part to 250=B0F, Spray a rather heavy coat of Krylon flat black enamel. After this dries out (almost immediately on the hot metal), spray another heavy coat, which will also dry quickly. Let the part "cure" for a couple of days, sitting out in the sun. The finish will be closer to glossy than flat.
After doing this, the paint was as tough as nails, and damn near impossible to remove.
Of course, your mileage may vary.
Yet another thing I've done, on electrical enclosures that had to look real spiffy, is to buy a case of beer for the guy at the local body shop and have him paint it for me. No muss, no fuss, no respirator, and a damned good job.
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 19:23:25 -0700, Ed Huntress wrote (in article ):
It's odd: same series Rustoleum paint, one flat white, one gloss "internationsl" orange.
The flat white dries very quickly. I've applied additional coats as quickly as 1, 3, 4, 6 hours without sanding, with no evidence of wrinkling.
The gloss orange, on the other hand, is 72 hours and counting, with no evidence of complete drying. It is still possible to dig in a thumbnail and see its impression. (This is outdoors in 80 degrees with pretty low humidity.)
I think I'll strip and try Krylon, or an automotive paint supplier's enamel in a Harbor Freight DIY spray can. The Rustoleum is going back to Orchard Supply.
If you have a TIG welder: I backfill paint cans and containers of various other chemicals with inert dry argon from the TIG bottle. I've had stuff last a decade that had a rated shelf life (after opening) of a week.
Depends on what your needs are. As disdainful as I am about Rustoleum, I do use it now and then. If you use it, use their thinning oil for spraying. It really does make a difference.
I think Red Devil offers a line of 1-part urethanes in a variety of colors in 8 oz cans. It's not automotive quality by a long shot but it ain't half bad.
There are some epoxy paints in rattlecans that are pretty good but you don't get nearly the control with a rattlecan that you do with an airbrush or jamb gun. 10 square inches is definitely airbrush territory. You also don't get the "build" or film thickness because the stuff in rattlecans is very thin and mostly propellent.
I prefer the Paasche airbrushes to Badger, but they both do a good job. I think the Paasche is easier to clean and it copes better with "large" jobs like 10 to 12 square inches. I think they are similar in cost.
The high cost of a small quantity of automotive paint is in the labor and not the materials - it actually takes them LONGER to mix up a half-pint than it does a gallon. They have to measure out minute quantities of pigment very accurately. And they will end up throwing out and remixing a larger percentage of batches.
For a gallon, if they are off a drop or two with the pigments, it'll be close enough. On a half-pint, a miss is as good as a mile.
-->--
For my needs, no matching necessary. Whatever orange they have that's close to what I think I want it to look like, I'll take it.
So, maybe no additional labor = cheap?
thanks.
I somehow knew before I opened this post that you were gonna say that, Ed. No, I've not taken an IQ test since then and I'm not gonna! If I've become dumb as a bowl of mice, I don't wanna know and don't care. I'm happy, enjoy every day of my life, what the hell.
The numbers wouldn't hold up anyway because there's no good baseline. I was tested a number of times when I was young but they never seemed to be able to come up with a score. I make no claim of being particularly bright but my approach to such tests seemed to confound the testers. I got interested in the more challenging questions, spent all my time on them. One tester, after looking at my test, said "engineer, huh?" "Uh, yuh." "It shows." She may have been looking at my tie, or perhaps my nerdpack pocket protector ...
The Army tested me, as I suppose they test everyone. When I asked them about my score they wouldn't tell me. Perhaps they figured I didn't have a need to know. No argument, I was just curious.
The only prospective employer that tested me during an interview visit for first job after Army made the higest salary offer by a good 20%. I didn't take it. I liked the people at Honeywell in Minneapolis better. Never regretted that decision.
Roger that! But adequate respirators with filter cartridges NIOSH-rated for the application aren't expensive, maybe 30 bux as a guess. I think I paid $18 for mine quite a while ago.
I am very allergic to some of that stuff. I dare not even open a can of two-part epoxy primer without respirator in place. If I do, I'll be wheezing for a while. But with respirator I can mix it and shoot it with no problems. I don't paint cars anymore but I still do small jobs now and then.
This item must be listed on Amazon's Chinese web site:
Product Description From the Manufacturer The Critter Spray Products 22032 118SG Siphon Gun is ideal for the beginner to serious the woodworker who wants to achieve professional finishes.
Either that, or the people who write the descriptions shouldn't do so while texting.
Joe
I heard about the propane here & tried it. It works great with Rustoleum & not at all with Benjamin Moore. The B-M will be skinned over in 3 days, even with the propane. I also tried CO2, with similar results. Fortunately I don't use much oil/alkyd paints nowadays.
Bob
Ed Huntress wrote: ["Badger thingies"]
...
How do the "Badger thingies" compare to a regular spray gun, say the HF "touch up" sprayer:
I think that there's a big difference between brush-on Rustoleum (good) and the rattle can stuff (bad).
Bob
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