Plastic welding question

My first thought is a pool liner patch kit, but then it occurred to my that's for vinyl, dunno if it'll stick to PP or PE. I've also heard of people making pool patches out of butyl adhesive flashing. Again, don't know how well it would work on PP/PE.

--Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford
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Except that it would be the *winter* water storage here. Summer is well over. (And depending on where it is, there may be plenty of opportunity to shovel snow in to replenish the water drained.)

And people here *like* to consider all kinds of tools and methods. I'm sure that whatever is finally used will be reasonable for the task.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

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Working from the 1000 gallons, and assuming a cube, I get 133 cubic feet, which results in a given edge being 5.1' long. If cylindrical, it might be deeper, and small enough in diameter to make it hard to crouch down in there. And since it is a crack near the bottom, that means that you will probably need to completely drain it -- and perhaps lay it on its side, so you can crawl in to do the inside work.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

You have to read the fine print, but you can find silicone caulk that's potable water (and/or food) contact safe.

I have repaired a clothes-washer plastic tub of similar plastic (type unknown, not 1000 gallons) by the method of cleaning it carefully, drying throughly (91 or 99% isopropyl is good for both purposes), applying caulk, applying fiberglass-mesh drywall tape for reinforcing, and applying more caulk to embed the tape. Held up for at least several years. Extend the reinforcing well past the damaged area.

Reply to
Ecnerwal
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Except that it would be the *winter* water storage here. Summer is well over. (And depending on where it is, there may be plenty of opportunity to shovel snow in to replenish the water drained.)

And people here *like* to consider all kinds of tools and methods. I'm sure that whatever is finally used will be reasonable for the task.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
Califbill

Well I just went and looked at the tank. It's not drinking water, they collect water off a neighbor's shed via extended gutter drain (with permission of course) and use it for watering their garden. Being on well water, it can get expensive pumping that water. Tank was a freebie, and they found a good use for it.

There's a flat area molded near the bottom with two fittings, one above the other. A crack developed vertically between the two. He's actually got it patched water tight from the inside already, but when full, this flat area bulges out and the crack opens up. Would leak but for the patch. It does leak from the fittings, but only when bulged out.

Welding the crack would accomplish nothing at this point, and given the stresses going on, I doubt would hold for long. We're going to make a flat plate to support this, and use two sets of steel banding to hold the flat area flat. I've got all the stuff for banding, so it should be a slam dunk.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and input!

Jon

Reply to
Jon Anderson

Yes , a bigger patch inside with another outside. If you can go to the bother, make it so the tank fittings go through the 2 parches. Plastic is notorious for being weak where fittings go through it. i did a complete re plumb for my daugher some 2 yrs ago, 70 gall cold water storage plastic round tank put in the roof space. and properly supported!!! i put a 12in by 12 in angle bracket off a floor joist screwed to a piece of 6 by 1 plank upright along side the tank. Drilled through to take the mains pressure tank filling ball valve. Without the rigidity of the plank it would have flexed too much and failed within a few months.

Reply to
Ted Frater

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