Quill DRO attachment

I'm trying to attach a 6" scale DRO (a Mitutoyo Digimatic) to my BP clone Kondia.

Does anyone have a picture of what worked for them or any good advice. I can think of a couple different ways to do it but I'm sure the ideal solution has allready been found.

Thanks.

Reply to
Philippe Habib
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I sent you some pictures of an installation. If you need any more views, or explanation, just ask.

It sure seems like a good way to do it, desighned by SWI or Bridgeport.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Logghe

I would happily send you a pic if it would help but I put mine on my Smithy 3-in-1 not a BP. The most important thing is to get it accurately lined up parallel with the axis of the mill.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Edwards

I've got the 6" Mitutoyo quill DRO on my Kondia variable speed BP clone. IIRC, the only thing I had to do that was not in the instructions was to mill a shallow slot in the back of the supplied aluminum mounting bar. The slot is for clearance for the sliding block on the quill feed mechanism. Only need to be .050" deep or so, or you could shim the mount block. It binds if you don't do one or the other.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Marrs

I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part for me is how to attach to the round part with the hole in it that goes up and down. The photo Pete sent me shows a pin that goes into the hole. I guess I could make a pin that is a very tight fit into that hole and it would work. The other option is a two part clamp that would grip that round part.

Reply to
Philippe Habib

The pin that goes into the hole has a slot milled into for about half it's length. On the end that goes into the hole, not the end that attaches to the DRO. There is a setscrew at an angle that spreads the split and expands the split end inside the hole. E-mail me if you want a good photo of the arrangement.

Bill Marrs

Reply to
Bill Marrs

The pin IS half of the two part clamp that grips the round part! I tried to show/and explain that in the second set of pictures. I'm Not too good with explanations.

It does not have to grip tightly into the hole, it is pulled sideways by the SHCS to grip the round thing with the mount for the scale slider.

In other words, the piece that clamps against the round thing is what attatches to the scale slider. The round pin that goes into the round thing is pulled sideways, to clamp the piece against the round thing...

I can send more pictures, or disassemble it if needed. Once you see how it works, it is _SO_ simple to make... Easier than any other ideas.

Let me know if you need more pictures.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Logghe

I think I get it enough to make something that will work one of two ways.

  1. turn a round pin that fits snugly into the hole. cut a slit into the portion that goes into the hole along the long axis. Have a setscrew at an angle to the slit that will force the slit open and make a tighter fit.

  1. Turn that same pin and also make something that will fit around the part that goes up and down with the quill. Draw the two together with a screw so the pin can't move.

In either case, the moving part of the dro attaches to that pin.

If I still seem like i don't get it, a picture would be great.

Whatever I wind up doing, I'll photograph it and put it in the dropox for the next guy.

I really appreciate the help and I'd like to do what I can to pass > > I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part

Reply to
Philippe Habib

No. The pin just fits loosley into the hole in the "round thing" as you named it. There is NO need to have a slit in the pin. There is no need to have a setscrew in the pin.

Gosh, I even took it apart, and took pictures of it. What you can't see in the pictures does not exist.

The part that goes up and down with the quill is what you nicnamed the "round thing" I have been very carefull to consistently refer to it like that.

The piece that wraps against the "round thing" is just a peice of metal with a v-notch that approximately matches the "round thing" We'll call it the V-block.

The V-block is what attatches to the DRO slider.

There is a screw through the V-block to the end of the pin. The pin will be pulled slightly crooked. That's OK!

The screw through the v-block, into the pin is what draws the V-block tightly against the "round thing"

The pin just has to Just sort of fit into the "round thing"

The V-block will line up with the "round thing' because it is a V-block. The Pin is used more like a claw, to grab a handy hole in the "round thing" and hang on.

You do NOT want to try to use the pin to attatch to the DRO slider. It is too hard to MAKE IT wnat to be lined up.

Teh V-block will naturally line up.

NO. see above.

I took it apart, and took all the pictures I could think of.

You are welcome to re-format the pictures I took. I didn't know how many should have been needed, or how much resolution was appropriate.

I'm not sure what else to take a picture of...

Maybe these words will help to make it clearer.

It's much simpler than your last post describes.

Hope that helps. Pete

Reply to
Pete Logghe

I think I finally got it. Thanks for the patience and the help.

The slit and expansion is how the mount that someone else has is made.

I really appreciate all of the time you spent helping me out.

C> > I think I get it enough to make something that will work one of two ways. > >

Reply to
Philippe Habib

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