Razor scooter woes

My youngest has a Razor Scooter, looking something like this one:
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The handle bar is a single piece T shape that slips on to a groved (looks
threaded, but seems to be a series of parallel notches) stem in the base.
Then a collar with two 7mm socket cap screws (a very difficult item for
me to find for sale) that secure the collar and clamp the bottom of the
T to the stem.
The problem is that the handlebar doesn't stay aligned with the wheel.
A bump or a crack will twist the wheel one way while the handlebar is
going the other, and oops, out of alignment.
The razor website sells replacement collars that use four of those screws,
for a better hold. Alas, those are for a different model and the collars
are a few mm too small.
I was thinking of taking it apart and applying red thread lock (loctite)
on the groves of the stem so that it gets second way of securing to the
I could, but am not enthusiastic about the idea, drill through things
and add some sort of cross piece, eg, a heavy duty cotter pin. Thread
lock seems less permanent than epoxy or welding, so if I need to take
it apart to repair or replace a piece I have that as an option.
How does that plan sound?
shipping from the razor website is a killer, too
Reply to
Eli the Bearded
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I would use instead of red Loctite the green stuff. Number 609 is one grade of "forever Loctite". Since you are locking a cylinder, not threads. I have always wondered why a different type of Loctite needed to be used, what was different about the two types, one for threads and the other for cylinders. The viscosities are so close to the same that I don't think that's the reason. I did contact Henkel and ask them but their technical dept. wouldn't tell me why. Eric
Reply to
How much longer you figure he's going to be the right size to ride? I'd go with the red loctite, and see if that holds.
Second attempt might be two part epoxy.
As to drill, cut threads and put in 8=32 screws maybe, and loctite the screws in?
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
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Reply to
Stormin Mormon
Why not just use a couple radiator hose clamps..the worm screw type and simply tighten the bastard down?
"The socialist movement takes great pains to circulate frequently new labels for its ideally constructed state. Each worn-out label is replaced by another which raises hopes of an ultimate solution of the insoluble basic problem of Socialism, until it becomes obvious that nothing has been changed but the name. The most recent slogan is "State Capitalism."[Fascism] It is not commonly realized that this covers nothing more than what used to be called Planned Economy and State Socialism, and that State Capitalism, Planned Economy, and State Socialism diverge only in non-essentials from the "classic" ideal of egalitarian Socialism. - Ludwig von Mises (1922)
Reply to
Gunner Asch
Here's a picture of the four screw collar that I mentioned:
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You think hose clamps will compete with the two screw version of that? I think you don't understand the problem at all.
Anyway, red locktite applied. Holding so far, but so far hasn't been long yet. Drill and cotterpin will probably be next tact.
Elijah ------ "a few mm too small" above refers to diameter
Reply to
Eli the Bearded
seat post clamps on bicycles are a another type of "collar clamp". If you t ype in collar clamp in a search, that should get you to all types of the d evices. Another thing, in the picture of the scooter from the target websit e, the slot cut in the tube doesn't line up with the opening in the clamp. So the clamping effect would be not at its best. Pat
Reply to
for anyone else that stumbles on this:
bike seat clamps, though they are the same size (31.8mm), are stepped. that is, they're designed to keep a bike seat in place by pinching harder at th e top of the clamp, then less at the bottom. this would possibly be worse t han the razor slipping, as it could cause a failure in the aluminum tube th at they use. so, that's a no go.
i opted for the "pro" 4 screw solution from their site. we'll see if it hel ps. i also used some blue loctite, but it's ineffective, as the threads don 't really even screw together. most of the problem is that the clamp and bo lt are cheap, and it's under-engineered. the bolt is also notoriously easy to strip. here's hoping that the new clamp is better.
type in collar clamp in a search, that should get you to all types of the devices. Another thing, in the picture of the scooter from the target webs ite, the slot cut in the tube doesn't line up with the opening in the clam p. So the clamping effect would be not at its best. Pat
Reply to
If that is a "Beast Pro" (or "pro beast") the clamp you mention seems to clamp the hollow handle bar riser to the steering tube of the front fork. Which is not that much different than a 1-1/8" bicycle steering system. Without actually seeing the thing I suspect that it may be a matter of trying to clamp a hollow tube to another hollow tube. which for some reason the bicycle world gets away with :-)
One solution would be to assemble the thing as the driver wants it to be, clamping it all together with the normal clamp and than drilling a hole through the handle bar steering tube, fork steering tube and clamp and install a bolt. If you have a taper reamer and some taper pins that would be even better as there would be no chance that the pin/bolt would wear the hole larger.
Reply to
John B.
The repair I made in 2013 that prompted my post which you just replied to has held since then. I used red locktite for that.
Elijah ------ the scooter still gets used, even
Reply to
Eli the Bearded

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