Recirculating coolant pump on 4x6 Bandsaw?

Hell yes. Id not be without one. Blades last a hell of a lot longer.

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

How'd you do it? What'd you use for a pan, sump? Locline? Water soluble or cutting oil?

-- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll Party Nominee, IPPVM Independent Party of the Proctologically Violated®© (M)asses "That's proly not a hemorrhoid you're feeling.... " entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net remove pi and e to reply--ie, all d'numbuhs

Cheap Harbor Freight submersible pump, a plastic battery box held to the bottom of the carriage with a slide in/slide out arraignment, any oil I could find handy. Mostly used cutting oil from machine shops.

Now my current horizontal band saws are already rigged for coolant. Trays, coolant sumps, Gusher pumps, valve and LocLine at the cutting area. Emerson band saws..7x12s. 108" 3/4" blades. I keep one with a

10/14 for ferrous, the other with a 6T for aluminum and plastics

One has used cutting oil (from a Davenport shop)..the other water based "something"..blue Stuff.

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

There is a plan in the 4x6bandsaw group on yahoo, see

They use a small fountain pump, and say it is a one-evening project. I haven't tried it yet.

Regards, Bob Headrick

Is it me, or is it a g-d pita to subscribe to this site?

Here's mine:

Even more important is to buy a good-quality bandsaw blade for it. A good blade lasts for a long time even when used dry.

After that comes some nylon rotating brush to clean the blade of metal shavings after cutting (ie. after workpiece, before guide bearings), so it won't get clogged and jam eventually.. Especially important when cutting "too large" items, where the shaving can get rather large when the cutting edge passes through the item. I'm too lazy to change the blade to different TPI, and just use the same blade for everything.

Kristian Ukkonen.

Until Tom Gardner comes up with a Kit of brushes..I keep a cheap paintbrush hanging over the blade with a clothes pin holding the bristles together. Blade motion keeps it pushed up against the end stop, so the vast majority of the cutting oil and fines stops at the brush. There is a constant flow of Stuff off the end of the brush

I get the brushes at the 99c store. 5 for a buck. Ive used it pretty steady..and Im on my 3rd brush after 3 yrs.

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

Kalamazoo, for their 9x16, and for a mere $130+, supply an arm and a rotating wire wheel that cleans chips off the blade. Said wheel rotates, but it might be more effective for stickier alum chips if it was stationary.

I redrilled the coolant holes in the blade guide (and if you knew Kalamazoo prices for replacement parts, esp. on anything machined, you'd realize I got the biggest pair of brass balls on the Internet to do this), so that the coolant itself does a better job of spraying/washing off the chips.

Which, in general, suggests perhaps higher pressure pumps (peristataltic like Karl's?) at a smaller flow. Some time ago, mebbe 6 mos, I started a thread about using air/coolant. Someone had made such a system, basically just some alum w/ a groove for the blade, w/ suitably placed holes.

Good ideas, tho. Had forgotten about chip removal.

OOOO! Very nice!!

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3