Reducing a 5/8" shaft

Not knowing what "junk" you have available...

What about a piece of rubber hose or beverage tubing with a 5/8" id fitted to the sht shaft & held tight with a clamp.

Then find something that will fit the drill & have a 5/8" od you can push into the tube. Maybe a small socket on a hex drive adaptor or similar. Maybe a TEK screw drive bit (if you call them that where ever you are).

Maybe you could drill out one of these Chinese couplers:

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Well, unless you have a lathe or know someone with one that could turn down your shaft, the shaft reducer for $60 is your best bet. Or get a bigger drill.

"homesteader824" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@diybanter.com...

A quick hardware-store solution would be to bolt together pulleys with

Lovejoy couplers are better for continuous duty with serious loads.

jsw

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw to hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

-- Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little, to cure diseases of which they know less, in human beings of which they know nothing.

--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.

jsw

Since you mentioned Grainger.................

Look at Lovejoy jaw couplings.

Dan

Do you have a drill press, bench grinder, taps?

What is the most you would be comfortable spending?

You imply that the extractor was made to be hand cranked. Which means fairly low crank speed which is geared up. Which means fairly high torque on the crank. Yes?

Many shafts have a center drill spot on the end of the shaft. If the shaft isn't hardened and your technique is good, you might be able to use the center spot to drill a hole into the shaft to tap and insert a bolt or threaded stud.

The guy with the machine shop would surely have some scrap on hand which would machine easily and work well. Hell, half my router is made from such scrap. I only bought the 24' chunk of 3x4" steel tube and the hardware. The local home improvement store got me for $33, a box of 50 5mm x 20mm x 0.8 pitch allen head cap screws. I got a box of 100 similar 5x16x0.8 screws from the local fastener supply for $5.35. SASCO Rules!

-- Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little, to cure diseases of which they know less, in human beings of which they know nothing.

--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

Go buy a cheap 5/8" drill bit with a stepped shaft that will fit the

How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I lived there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.

David Billington fired this volley in news:4fd60e7c$0$7317$ snipped-for-privacy@news.zen.co.uk:

Still not as common as Imperial sizes, but every hardware store sells metric stuff now. All fastener outlets have almost all sizes in stock.

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for metric.

But David, in 1968 I bought a Fiat Spider (Boy! Was THAT a mistake), and was able to pick up all the metric wrenches and fasteners I needed from the local NAPA store -- even back then.

LLoyd

Hardware stores stock a lot of metric stuff, may not have all the thread pitches or head styles one might desire, though. Most of the chain auto parts places will have at least a few of the more common metric bolts and nuts, most have a section of drawers with more specialized hardware. Plus metric wrenches and sockets are readily available. What bugs me most is that even though it's a world standard and much of this stuff is coming in from offshore, they STILL charge a super-premium for metric fasteners. Should be cheaper than SAE parts since they're made in more volume.

Stan

"David Billington" wrote>>

Hardware stores around here have a decent selection of them in the higher-priced drawers and blister paks, but maybe not in the cheaper large bulk bins.

jsw

Grab a long joiner nut for 1/2" threaded rod and bore out one end for

You can do it all with a drill press and a hack-saw (and a tap for the set screw) in under half an hour. Use a bit of thread locker and/or shaft/bearing mount if you are paranoid.

Called a "silver and demmings" or "cheater" bit.