Reducing a 5/8" shaft

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

Reply to
homesteader824
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Not knowing what "junk" you have available...

What about a piece of rubber hose or beverage tubing with a 5/8" id fitted to the sht shaft & held tight with a clamp.

Then find something that will fit the drill & have a 5/8" od you can push into the tube. Maybe a small socket on a hex drive adaptor or similar. Maybe a TEK screw drive bit (if you call them that where ever you are).

Reply to
Dennis

Maybe you could drill out one of these Chinese couplers:

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Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Well, unless you have a lathe or know someone with one that could turn down your shaft, the shaft reducer for $60 is your best bet. Or get a bigger drill.

Reply to
tnik

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$36.21 clamp on shaft coupling. Then you just need a 1/2" shaft..

Reply to
tnik

"homesteader824" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@diybanter.com...

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hardware stores have them.

A quick hardware-store solution would be to bolt together pulleys with

5/8" and 1/2" center holes. Clamp them concentric with a 1/2" flat-head bolt. Axle bolts for replacement lawnmower wheels have a 1/2" shank with 3/8" threads that will chuck in a 3/8" drill.

Lovejoy couplers are better for continuous duty with serious loads.

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Or you could use this problem to justify buying a metal lathe.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw to hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

-- Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little, to cure diseases of which they know less, in human beings of which they know nothing.

--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

Reply to
Larry Jaques

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Since you mentioned Grainger.................

Look at Lovejoy jaw couplings.

4x176 4x177 1x409 Total cost about $10.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

Do you have a drill press, bench grinder, taps?

What is the most you would be comfortable spending?

You imply that the extractor was made to be hand cranked. Which means fairly low crank speed which is geared up. Which means fairly high torque on the crank. Yes?

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

Many shafts have a center drill spot on the end of the shaft. If the shaft isn't hardened and your technique is good, you might be able to use the center spot to drill a hole into the shaft to tap and insert a bolt or threaded stud.

Reply to
Denis G.

The guy with the machine shop would surely have some scrap on hand which would machine easily and work well. Hell, half my router is made from such scrap. I only bought the 24' chunk of 3x4" steel tube and the hardware. The local home improvement store got me for $33, a box of 50 5mm x 20mm x 0.8 pitch allen head cap screws. I got a box of 100 similar 5x16x0.8 screws from the local fastener supply for $5.35. SASCO Rules!

-- Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little, to cure diseases of which they know less, in human beings of which they know nothing.

--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Go buy a cheap 5/8" drill bit with a stepped shaft that will fit the

1/2" drill. You can find one at HF or many other stores. Now use your dremal to cut the fluted section off that drill. You will also want 4 good worm style hose clamps and a section of reinforced rubber hose with a 5/8" ID. Now place the hose over the drill bit and the shaft and then apply the clamps. When you install the clamps place them with the first two on the bit end 180 degrees apart so they stay balanced, then the other two get applied at 90 degrees to those with the screws 180 degrees apart as well. when you're done the screws will be equally placed around the hose.
Reply to
Steve W.

How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I lived there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.

Reply to
David Billington

David Billington fired this volley in news:4fd60e7c$0$7317$ snipped-for-privacy@news.zen.co.uk:

Still not as common as Imperial sizes, but every hardware store sells metric stuff now. All fastener outlets have almost all sizes in stock.

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for metric.

But David, in 1968 I bought a Fiat Spider (Boy! Was THAT a mistake), and was able to pick up all the metric wrenches and fasteners I needed from the local NAPA store -- even back then.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Hardware stores stock a lot of metric stuff, may not have all the thread pitches or head styles one might desire, though. Most of the chain auto parts places will have at least a few of the more common metric bolts and nuts, most have a section of drawers with more specialized hardware. Plus metric wrenches and sockets are readily available. What bugs me most is that even though it's a world standard and much of this stuff is coming in from offshore, they STILL charge a super-premium for metric fasteners. Should be cheaper than SAE parts since they're made in more volume.

Stan

Reply to
Stanley Schaefer

"David Billington" wrote>>

Hardware stores around here have a decent selection of them in the higher-priced drawers and blister paks, but maybe not in the cheaper large bulk bins.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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Reply to
Tom Gardner

Grab a long joiner nut for 1/2" threaded rod and bore out one end for

5/8" shaft, drill one flat for set screw, and cut the head off a 1/2" bolt to thread in the other end.

You can do it all with a drill press and a hack-saw (and a tap for the set screw) in under half an hour. Use a bit of thread locker and/or shaft/bearing mount if you are paranoid.

Reply to
clare

Called a "silver and demmings" or "cheater" bit.

Reply to
clare

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