Round blacksmith tables made from blind pipe flanges

First, a little update on making and selling welding tables. The update is that I have no more welding tables for sale, because all the ones that I made, have sold. I need to make more soon.

Second, I have approximately a dozen of huge "blind pipe flanges", weighing about 3,000 lbs total. They look like this, but more rusted and with mill scale:

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The flanges I have are around 20 inches in diameter and 1.5-2 inches thick. Weighing 250 lbs or so. Really huge. I wanted to use them to make tabletops for round "blacksmith tables", by welding legs underneath them. As for the holes around the circumference, I would say in the ad "convenient holes are provided for hanging blacksmith tongs".

Based on my experience with wannabe and experienced blacksmiths, people will go gaga over these tables and will buy them, and will be happy forever. It is hard to find a round small table with a 2 inch thick top. What I want to understand better is details.

I have two questions. The first is how many legs to provide, 3 or 4?

Second question, is how to weld legs. I can either weld them exactly perpendicular to the flanges (vertical), or slightly inclined, kind of like on most bar stools. Inclined legs would provide more support area, obviously, but it is harder to align them properly. The only way to do it nicely would be to make a custom jig.

Anyone with any experience in that sort of thing?

Reply to
Ignoramus23234
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3 legs will be stable on most any surface, 4 legs will tend to rock on anything but a dead flat surface, and you may need to provide some sort of leveling device.

Inclined or splayed, with the floor ends several inches outside the disc will be much more stable. What are you using for the leg material? Most likely you will need two jigs. One to cut the miter/bevel parallel on both ends, and another to hold the leg in position when you tack it. This is likely to be a high stress joint, given the expected pounding. Are you going to add any braces? Can you hot bend the legs into an ell shape so there is more weld area than just a butt joint?

What kind of welding/rod are you going to use? Any thought to burying the welds in lime or vermiculite/cat litter to prevent too rapid cooling and embrittlement?

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

You've got to ship these, right?

I'd make up a leg that bolts through the hole. If it were me, I'd have two splayed "L" shapes cut on a CNC torch table for each leg, then weld in a cross piece to form a channel and have a bolt on the top of the "L". tell the end use he can weld for re-inforcement.

three legs would be better

Reply to
Karl Townsend

I agree.

Well, a bandsaw can cut a miter.

Without question, I will need bracing near the bottom. This is a good point. The welds will fail after repeated pounding, sooner or later, and braces will save the situation.

Most likely I will make the first one with 7018, and I will let my guy do the rest with MIG.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28056

By freight.I expect most to sell locally.

These would not beUPS shippable, 250+ lbs.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28056

This is how these flanges look like:

formatting link

Reply to
Ignoramus28056

I would want one leg. Say a 6 by 6 square tube with a flange so it can be bolted to the floor. One is not going to be moving something like that very often.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

I do not have such a tube, but I do have pipe. I cannot really afford to buy new steel from dealers.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28056

Pipe would work.

You might be better off listing different types and not weld the leg (s) on until the customer decides what he wants.

Dan

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

That's a good idea.

Reply to
Ignoramus28056

Speaking as a blacksmith...

Center post, ca. 3" pipe. 1/4" plate disk or square for a base. Gussets to brace the welds.

Make one for a demo. Let customers decide how high they want it, cut the pipe to the length that suits them.

Some will want to bolt to the floor (smaller base), some will want to add casters (so need overall height lower). Some smiths stow their gear under cover, wheel it outdoors to work; a square base plate will be easier to move with a hand truck.

Better yet, sell as is to blacksmiths who will polish them and make fancy ornamental legs for coffee, hall or telephone tables. Massive but attractive and unique furniture is a sought-for asset in a house with a big dog.

Reply to
Mike Spencer

Three legs might not make for a level table top, but at least it won't rock back and forth.

I've dissembled tables when people move from one house to another. A couple bolts, nuts, washers.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Right. And with some shims you can easily level those three legged tables.

Dissembling is bad!

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26150

I've had a chance to help LDS members move house. When they move out of my area, I help dismember them.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

My back hurts just looking at them!

Reply to
amdx

My back actually hurts. And that is fron lifting smaller flanges, which I scrapped.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26150

Only use (3) legs

Then it will never rock.

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Looks like there is a consensus...

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26150

I use a collection of those small blanks with my hydraulic press. They are flat, easy to stack, helps a bunch when adjusting heights.

Reply to
DanG

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