stryped fired this volley in news:870721f7-7ab4- snipped-for-privacy@o36g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:
Why would you not tape and joint? This is a job even you might be able to figure out. Think of it as an advanced form of playing in a mud puddle.
Even if it's not slick, it would be better than leaving the joints open; and immensely better than just painted OSB.
Tape and joint the corners, just like you do the straight work.
That's why the mud comes wet, instead of pre-cast in strips.
LLoyd
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: ...
LOL - good one! (What's the emoticon for sarcasm?)
Bob
...
It would look better with tape and mud, but as TMT points out, you can put it up without tape and mud and still get a fire barrier. Untaped tapered edges are a slight visual problem but don't look as bad as charred boards.
Generally, painting the sheets before rather than after putting them up would be a mistake, for several reasons. It isn't easy to paint a stack of drywall, but is easy and fast to prime and paint a new drywall installation. If you can't afford drywall, you can't afford the building. Before you close in your walls, run at least one separate wiring circuit to each of the four walls instead of having all the outlets in the garage on the same circuit.
Re vapor barrier, at one point says, "Heating-dominated climates require an interior vapor retarder. Cooling-dominated climates require an exterior vapor retarder. In mixed climates it is often better to have none." In Tennessee's climate and in a garage, perhaps skip the barrier and go with ADA -- For garage walls with shelves and numerous other attachments to the walls, 7/16" or 1/2" OSB covered with 1/2" drywall is what I would use. Re insulation, are you talking about blowing insulation into the attic area only, with batts in the walls, or blown in the walls also?
^ walls
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