Serious trailer design questions

Mount the ends of the spring (fixed end, anyway) BETWEEN the rails, so the bolt goes through BOTH rails and the spring eye. Weld a pupe into the hole from both ends as a "bushing" for the bolt to go through, to spread the load properly into the frame.

Make that a PIPE

1) I'd go with a 2" ball hitch. Lunette is perhaps more rugged but very uncommon. I suppose you could view it as a theft prevention, no one else has one.

2) Brakes are optional for smaller trailers, mandatory for larger trailers. The exact crossover is dependent on state, typically 3000 pounds gross (loaded) trailer weight. According to this site Ilinois is at the 3000 pounds, I'd check with your DMV

a side comment, I often see new trailers listed at 2900# capacity with a 3500# capacity axle and no brakes sitting next to an identical trailer WITH brakes and a 3500# capacity.

Electric vs surge brakes is a personal choice, both have pros and cons. It would probably be easier to get electic brakes working in your case.

3) From the looks of your box, I'd say that you have the makings of a decent 3000 pound gross trailer. 3500# axles are quite common. The industry standards seem to be 2000#. 3500#, and 6000#. I'd start with is a complete 3500# axle, hubs, and springs for $239 would still need to add wheels and tires as well as the electric brake package.

Take a careful look at the spring perch mounts, the spring perch centerlines, and the hub to hub dimensions to make sure they will work for you. The spring perches can be moved but it is a bit of work.

If you want to do a scrounge axle, a lot of the front wheel drive cars have solid rear axles. You will probably want something from a larger car, look for a car over 4000 pounds GVW

4) For a low trailer, you will want a dropped axle. You may wish to consider a spring under axle configuration to get it lower. Keep in mind that the spring perches may need to be relocated. The axle has positive caster built in, you cannot just flip the axle over.

For a really low trailer you can get some rubber torsion axle mounts take a look at

'm not sure I like these, they tend to have fairly low travel from droop to compression (read stiff and bouncy)

5) Fram> I am 100% committed to making a trailer. I am going to use this

Lunette is also easier to hitch under less than great conditions (such as dark weather, bad terrain etc).

I have a 5,000 gross trailer with a 21 foot boat, with a ball hitch, and hitching is is unpleasant.

I would definitely get brakes, no ifs or buts.

Here is a complete 3500# axle, hubs, and springs for $239

You would still need to add wheels and tires as well as the electric

These axles are great, HOWEVER I found out an hour ago that they are way too long (wide). At 93 inches, they are approximately 20 inches wider than my trailer.

I want my wheels to fit my wheel wells. That means about 74" width.

would be nice to find one from a 2wd 1 ton pickup. I will call Aurora U Pull It tomorrow.

These are low capacity, unfortunately. I am looking right now for something stronger.

I think that it is very strong, and has ribbing underneath.

seems to have some interesting products where they can make them to the length I want.

i

Practice more or consider adding (or cloning) one of the hitch funnel guides that mount between the receiver hitch and hitch ball. As long as you have the trailer jack adjusted to the correct height you only have to be close to get hitched as the guide funnels the trailer into alignment.

> Here is a complete 3500# axle, hubs, and springs for $239

> You would still need to add wheels and tires as well as the electric

Trailer axles are easy to make narrower. Basically you just scribe accurate alignment lines on the axle tube along it's length, cut the excess section out from the middle and then weld the tube back together using the scribe lines to insure alignment.

That will be a steer axle since a pickup is RWD. You don't want a steer axle as it just adds more headaches locking it in proper alignment. Since your trailer will in all probability require inspection for registration a real trailer axle is probably better. An auto axle will also be problematic since you also need brakes and a trailer electric brake kit isn't going to work on an auto axle.

>

They are available in larger capacities.

up to 8,000# cap. I've got a pair of their torsion axles on my 24' 10,000# auto/cargo trailer which seem to do well.

Strong only in one direction which is why the pic you linked showing the underside had a real frame supporting it.

As can you. Trailer tube axles are easy to adjust, just cut and reweld.

Pete C.

I have become kind of okay with it over the years (meaning it is still unpleasant, but not as bad). Yes, the funnel or a post on trailer would help.

> > Here is a complete 3500# axle, hubs, and springs for $239

> > You would still need to add wheels and tires as well as the electric

Pete, how would this weld hold under shock loads, etc? Does it need reinforcing by extra angle, channel etc, welded along?

Yes, I was mistaken.

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>

I will call them on Monday. Thank you.

I agree, yes, and I plan on adding lengthwise steel subing underneath, also.

OK... I was afraid that they would crack at some point...

i

Go to your local surplus electronics emporium (Factory direct has a nice set for Cdn$35), and pick up a wireless camera, or get a backup camera (Canadian tire had them at christmas) and mount it so you can see the ball. Then hitching is a BREEZE. You can make it a temporary mount so you just snap it on a bracket when you want to hook up.

> > Here is a complete 3500# axle, hubs, and springs for $239

> > You would still need to add wheels and tires as well as the electric

> >

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Highly recommended to sleeve the splice, either inside or outside, and use a few rosebud welds along with the end welds.

Putting on the electric brakes is the only deal braker. Locking the steering is simple - just fasten (weld, bolt, or whatever) the inner tie rods or the drag link to the axle. Leave the kingpins loose. That way you can adjust toe in and tracking.

Problem with spring under axle is reduced suspension travel - the axle bottoms more easily. A drop axle is the cat's meow. Remember also you WILL want shocks. Good heavy ones monted so they are effective. Nothing worse than going over a bump and throwing half your load off the trailer - or having it throw the tow vehicle around like a cat playing with a toy.

> >

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Not a good idea and probably illegal in most places. You can get away with it until something happens and the law gets involved.

Generally no problem if properly sleeved - and the "rosebud" welds are almost a necessity to prove it was properly sleeved. A plain butt weld, or even a scarfed joint, would quite likely NOT pass inspection in those locales where inspection is required on trailers. I've seen old car front axles "spread" by cutting and welding in steel angle - and I've seen them bend because they lost all their heat treatment from the weld. A tubular axle is much better - and a drop axle made from heavy wall square tubing is the easiest to work with. Spring perches are easier to handle on a square tube. You use straight bolts instead of "U" bolts. Gusseting the drop is simpler than on round tube. Use 4 " square tube, put 1/2" plate uprights on the end, gussetted with the same material, and weld the end of an old mobile home axle on each end. Best if you can have a hole plasma cut or laser cut for the axle tube to fit INTO the plate so you can weld it on the inside, making a much stronger weld. They can be had cheap from trailer repair shops because so many trailers are run overweight (travel trailers) and bend the axles so they scrub off tires. They are scrap when removed, but VERY useable for making your drop axle.

You might find getting the tech data from Dexter Axle worthwhile

WB metalworking projects

Ignoramus9726 wrote in article ...

I have built several race car trailers using mobile home axles. I have NEVER spent more than $100 USD per axle complete with springs, shackles, rockers, brakes, tires, and wheels.

Your local law may frown on using OEM tires that are now stamped "One Trip Only" on them, but new wheels and tires are not hard to find at reasonable prices.

Most mobile home axles have the springs mounted on top of the axle.

I usually cut the spring pads off and re-weld them to the bottom of the axle, then mount the spring underneath the axle - which lowers things several inches.

NOTE: You cannot simply spin the axle 180° so the pads face down due to camber that is built into the axle. You really need to cut the pads off and re-weld them on the opposite side....maintaining the original axle orientation.

A lot of times, once a mobile home is set up and they are selling the axles, you can buy the complete tongue assembly for $50 or so.

These usually have a 2-5/16 ball setup (really heavy duty), and are not difficult to add a spring bar setup to.

Yes, they seem to be very reputable, I downloaded some of their brochures.

i

And there is NOTHING worse trying to back up, than a short tounge. The longer the better

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Excellent advise all.

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Hang on - hang on !

What's this thread about?

Yes, I will make it reasonably long -- so that I can tow the trailer and make tight turns with my tailgate open. The longer is the tongue, the easier it is to back up. I am actually decent at backing up with a trailer.

i

Im, very very good at it. Many years of practice, including semis and double trailers.

And the little tilt trailer I own at the moment..is the single most miserable bitch Ive ever had to back up. The wheels are about 12" too far forward, to accomodate the tilt mechanism..and the tongue is at least 10"-14" too short. And they put the jack so far forward I cant get the pickup tailgate down.

Someday Ill fix it..but its gonna take some serious reworking.

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Particularly true when the ball is far behind the towing rear axle -- The closer to between the rear wheels the ball is, the shorter the tongue can be. ANd the easier to back, regardless of tongue length.