Sharpening HSS Parting Blades

"Searcher7" wrote in message


Ok, I assume that these are what you are referring to for use in a Dremel:
www.ebay.com/itm/220736342993 www.ebay.com/itm/110784038017
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York
==================================================================BTW, I checked HD for those wheels and they're $10 for a pack of 20. So your online deals will be better if the shipping doesn't eat up the difference.
--
Ed Huntress


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-I've not been able to find the silicon-carbide cutoff wheels you -mentioned. Only grinding stones. -Perhaps an angle grinder is better for this? -Darren Harris
I just break the blade. Clamp the section you want to use in the vise horizontally, hold a steel block against the vise jaw and protruding part at a small angle and hit the block with a hammer. The block concentrates the force at the edge of the jaws and more or less shears off the blade.
jsw
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On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 09:03:53 -0800 (PST)
<snip>

I've re-purposed old hacksaw blades for other uses too. Noticed that the back of the blade is sometimes different acting material than the front (toothed side):
"Bimetal blades are made with a high-speed steel cutting edge that is welded to a spring steel blade back."
Some blades (carbon?) seem to be softer, less springy on the back side. May just have been the particular blade I was using, but you may want to keep this in mind if you get unexpected results...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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Searcher7 wrote:

You can certainly sharpen to a knife edge, but I'm not getting how this would make a less tedious process??
What about tin shears?

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On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 11:10:26 -0700 (PDT)
<snip>

A few other ideas...
Carpet knife (has replaceable blades):
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Roofer's knife (has replaceable blades):
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
There are also several varieties of carbide scrapers. Maybe just the replacement blade could be used. Should be a lot tougher than what you have been using, but don't know if it would be sharp enough (shrug):
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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Leon Fisk Inscribed thus:

(Amazon.com product link shortened)
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Whats wrong with a chop type paper guillotine ? I often cut 1mm sheet aluminum with mine !
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
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On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 11:10:26 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

Sure, why not? We used to use them to make "chisels" to bust screws in the skin of airplanes loose.
Don't think of them as "parting tools" just think of them as a chunk of steel and make anything you want.
-- John B.
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Searcher was searching...

Searcher, there's a much easier way to score shim stock and thin sheet stock. It's fast and effective, because instead of just impressing a knive edge into the material, this method actually removes a thin line of stock.
Get thyself down to a good glass shop or plastics dealer, and buy a plastics scoring knife. I use one all the time to cut thin stuff, although the blades aren't usually hard enough to handle high-carbon steel.
However, once you use one and see how it's made, you'll be quick to make a "permanent" one yourself -- and a parting blade would be just the ticket.
Lloyd
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SEE:
"skrawker"...
http://preview.tinyurl.com/3lq9qoz
Your welcome.
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How thick is the sheet? If you are cutting straight lines could you use a paper guillotine?
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Scoring blades are the ticket for using a hand tool to cut sheet materials. Stanley markets them in long and short versions for their utility knives. I've used these scoring blades for decades to cut sheet brass, aluminum, plastics and thin mild steel. They also serve to make a clean break line for bending or folding most sheet materials.
Have a look around at the location of acrylic sheet materials (window replacement clear stuff) in the home improvement stores, and you might see a scoring tool which is just a thin steel tool with a hooked/notched cutter at the end.
These are used by pulling them across the sheet material, and it's helpful to start with a few light cuts before pressing hard for deeper cuts. I generally start at the end of the cut nearest to me, with a few passes, then continue by making several longer passes until I get to the full length of the cut.. this is especially useful in soft materials where the cutting tip may wander away from the guide/straightedge if attempting a deep cut at the full length of the cut on the first pass.
A HSS cutoff/parting blade would make a very good cutter, or even a carbide paint scraper blade. The tip just needs to be a thin V with the cutting face tilted away from the operator, so it cuts and lifts a curl of the material on the pull stroke. A tiny carbide scribe tip with a flat ground on it (like a D engraving/cutting tool) or a chipped carbide insert cutter could be brazed to a suitable handle (or possibly clamped).
--
WB
.........


"Searcher7" < snipped-for-privacy@mail.con.com> wrote in message
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I think I have one of those plastic cutting tools somewhere. But I hated using it on plexiglass because it was difficult getting it to stay against the straight edge when cutting.
I was at Home Depot today, and couldn't figure out what kind of blade you were referring to for a Stanley utility knife.
I saw drywall, roofing, hook, carton, snap-off, and utility blades. What exactly should I be looking for?
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Ok. I'll just try the "Heavy Duty" blades I saw.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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On 11/2/2011 14:10, Searcher7 wrote:

Will this work?
http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Office/Office-Trimmers/12-Deluxe-Rotary-Trimmer
--
Steve Walker
snipped-for-privacy@frontierbrain.com (remove brain when replying)
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