On Sep 19, 2017, Howard Beel wrote
(in article ):
Bad idea. And the saw slips for lack of a antirotation key. Probably cobbled
And the saw blade is badly fouled with adhering chips - looks like aluminum,
even though the billet is dark colored. Slitting needs to be done wet.
Yeah, that's amazing. As in, BAD! I always use a slitting saw with flood
coolant. I have several arbors that can be used with them. The bigger ones
do have a keyway, the smaller ones don't, but don't seem to slip with
reasonable depth of cut and feedrate.
I have found that most slitting saws have some runout and usually need
a touch up when mounted in the arbor. For some reason there always
seem to be a few teeth that are higher than the rest. Some of the blades
i indicated were 15 thou out of round and i sent them back to the vendor.
After mounting the saw in the mill i indicate it and mark the high teeth
then use a dumore tool post grinder to knock down the high teeth.
I like the peterson expanding flush mount arbors and robbjack arbors.
Yes, I can certainly hear the runout as a zing-zing-zing as the spindle
rotates. It doesn't seem to hurt the operation or affect surface finish
much in the groove. So, I just live with it.
My guess is these things are punched out of blanks, rather than machined and
sharpened on an arbor.
It would be intresting to how the saws are made. Since they are made of HSS
i don't think they are stampings. Maybe the hardened blanks are stacked and
ground on a specialized cnc grinder, grind a bunch of the same size saws all
All the HSS drills i have run into have soft shanks. Only the flutes are
My collection of big drills were originaly 4 and 5 MT that i purchase cheap
because there is no hobby market for them. Generaly you can buy them at
industrial auctions for scrap prices. Just turn down the shanks to size you
need. I use a collet chuck to hold them so the shanks don't mungged up.
Every slitting saw I have ever used seems to have some degree of runout
and is noticeable in the noise of the cutting. Most I use are top
quality as well and came from a local engineering company involved in
high volume production when it was demolished for housing and I got a
lifetimes supply of the things for no money, actually my neighbour sold
some at the local model engineering club at the first bring and buy day
and brought back more than I paid for the lot and I still have a draw
full. I usually run without a key as it was running with a key using a
large slitting saw, 8" IIRC, that it jammed and took out the main
spindle key in the BP when running with a 90 degree head. I don't run
them with flood coolant but do keep them well oiled.
I understood that the drills are HSS all over, but the shank remains
annealed for better grip.
"mica", not "mice".
The MT2 tailstock on my lathe and B&S 7 spindle on my mill limit drill
bit size to around 3/4" for heavy cuts, 1" by going slowly. I cut
larger holes by boring or with a hole saw.
I find annular cutters, rotabroaches, work great in my lathe and mill
and make light work of cutting the bulk of the material out, far better
than holes saws. In the mill I just chuck them in a 3/4" collet, in the
lathe I use a modified 2MT to 3MT adapter bored to 3/4" and fitted with
2 grub screws at 90 degrees.
If you take a taper shank drill and test the shank with a spectrascope
you will see it is not HSS. I know this for a fact. Back in the 1970's
i was in the bussines of buying and selling alloys. Back then M2,M3
HSS would fetch around $3.00 per pound. We always cut the shank
off taper shank drills to maximize profits.
The largest drill i have is 2.75". Don't use hole saws anymore, switched
over to annular cutters. For boring i like the kennametal twin bore tooling,
no more tapering concerns and they use cheap carbide inserts. For big
holes a treapaning tool is the way i go.
Annular cutters are on my shopping list now. However the large round
holes I mostly cut are for analog panel meters in thin aluminum or
plastic for which not grabbing is more important than cutting speed.
I've been putting cheap analog meters on my solar panel downleads
after losing a nice digital Wattmeter to possibly static electricity.
You will be happy with annular cutters. For thin materials and plastics
start with a sloooow feed. I have found that thier cutting action is
agressive much more so than a hole saw. Run them slow to start
with, fine tune as you go along.
Annulars are wicked, aggressive looking tools.
I ordered some hole saws on Ebay and they accidentally sent a set of
diamond core bits in a different size set. Got a full refund and kept
the diamonds. Ended up buying a single deep hole saw locally, and it
cut the metal door easily.
Bummer. Aren't your panel frames, ground wires, and control panel
face grounded? Which meter, Watt Meter (blue al), DROK, or Bayite?
It's a stand-alone system at 24V or less, which is allowed to be
ungrounded. There is a ground rod for the generator when connected.
The panels can be patched in parallel for 12V or series for 24V so one
has to float. The lightning arrestors trip at 70-85V.
"Be sure to make that connection (between negative and equipment
grounding) in one place only."
This is the meter that failed by reading high. I can't prove static
Isn't static electricity usually measured in the kV?
I get the ground loop thing, but since they're not electrically
connected, I'm going to ground my frames and rails from a separate
ground right next to their end of the roof, for the unlikely instance
of lightning. The redwood would be the most likely strike point, with
the power poles coming a close second, and the house/panels 3rd. SWAG
I'm glad I don't live in your Lightning Alley.
Perhaps they should rename it BangBad? (mindless Blue State humor)
PeaceFair looks a mite like a Bayite, enough that both could have come
from the same factory. Perhaps I'll treat my Bayites a bit more
cautiously from now on, since I hadn't been thinking about static
Gotta get those panels UP!