Bad idea. And the saw slips for lack of a antirotation key. Probably cobbled
together.
And the saw blade is badly fouled with adhering chips - looks like aluminum,
even though the billet is dark colored. Slitting needs to be done wet.
Joe Gwinn
Yeah, that's amazing. As in, BAD! I always use a slitting saw with flood
coolant. I have several arbors that can be used with them. The bigger ones
do have a keyway, the smaller ones don't, but don't seem to slip with
reasonable depth of cut and feedrate.
Jon
I have found that most slitting saws have some runout and usually need
a touch up when mounted in the arbor. For some reason there always
seem to be a few teeth that are higher than the rest. Some of the blades
i indicated were 15 thou out of round and i sent them back to the vendor.
After mounting the saw in the mill i indicate it and mark the high teeth
then use a dumore tool post grinder to knock down the high teeth.
I like the peterson expanding flush mount arbors and robbjack arbors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hWW5enRfmw
Best Regards
Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
Yes, I can certainly hear the runout as a zing-zing-zing as the spindle
rotates. It doesn't seem to hurt the operation or affect surface finish
much in the groove. So, I just live with it.
My guess is these things are punched out of blanks, rather than machined and
sharpened on an arbor.
Jon
It would be intresting to how the saws are made. Since they are made of HSS
i don't think they are stampings. Maybe the hardened blanks are stacked and
ground on a specialized cnc grinder, grind a bunch of the same size saws all
at once?
Best Regards
Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
I turned and milled the shank end of a 3/8" HSS drill bit into a 1/4"
hex with retention groove to snap and lock into an extension shaft. It
cut easily with HSS tooling.
-jsw
All the HSS drills i have run into have soft shanks. Only the flutes are
HSS.
My collection of big drills were originaly 4 and 5 MT that i purchase cheap
because there is no hobby market for them. Generaly you can buy them at
industrial auctions for scrap prices. Just turn down the shanks to size you
need. I use a collet chuck to hold them so the shanks don't mungged up.
Best Regards
Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
I understood that the drills are HSS all over, but the shank remains
annealed for better grip.
http://www.zianet.com/ebear/metal/heattreat5.html
"mica", not "mice".
The MT2 tailstock on my lathe and B&S 7 spindle on my mill limit drill
bit size to around 3/4" for heavy cuts, 1" by going slowly. I cut
larger holes by boring or with a hole saw.
-jsw
I find annular cutters, rotabroaches, work great in my lathe and mill
and make light work of cutting the bulk of the material out, far better
than holes saws. In the mill I just chuck them in a 3/4" collet, in the
lathe I use a modified 2MT to 3MT adapter bored to 3/4" and fitted with
2 grub screws at 90 degrees.
Agreed annular cutters also require less HP to do the job putting
less strain on your machine. They don't have the problem of chip
packing that hole saws have.
Best Regards
Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
If you take a taper shank drill and test the shank with a spectrascope
you will see it is not HSS. I know this for a fact. Back in the 1970's
i was in the bussines of buying and selling alloys. Back then M2,M3
HSS would fetch around $3.00 per pound. We always cut the shank
off taper shank drills to maximize profits.
The largest drill i have is 2.75". Don't use hole saws anymore, switched
over to annular cutters. For boring i like the kennametal twin bore tooling,
no more tapering concerns and they use cheap carbide inserts. For big
holes a treapaning tool is the way i go.
Best Regards
Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
Annular cutters are on my shopping list now. However the large round
holes I mostly cut are for analog panel meters in thin aluminum or
plastic for which not grabbing is more important than cutting speed.
I've been putting cheap analog meters on my solar panel downleads
after losing a nice digital Wattmeter to possibly static electricity.
-jsw
You will be happy with annular cutters. For thin materials and plastics
start with a sloooow feed. I have found that thier cutting action is
agressive much more so than a hole saw. Run them slow to start
with, fine tune as you go along.
Best Regards
Tom.
I
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
Annulars are wicked, aggressive looking tools.
I ordered some hole saws on Ebay and they accidentally sent a set of
diamond core bits in a different size set. Got a full refund and kept
the diamonds. Ended up buying a single deep hole saw locally, and it
cut the metal door easily.
Bummer. Aren't your panel frames, ground wires, and control panel
face grounded? Which meter, Watt Meter (blue al), DROK, or Bayite?
--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
It's a stand-alone system at 24V or less, which is allowed to be
ungrounded. There is a ground rod for the generator when connected.
The panels can be patched in parallel for 12V or series for 24V so one
has to float. The lightning arrestors trip at 70-85V.
https://www.homepower.com/articles/solar-electricity/design-installation/ask-experts-grounding-dc-systems
"Be sure to make that connection (between negative and equipment
grounding) in one place only."
This is the meter that failed by reading high. I can't prove static
caused it.
https://www.banggood.com/PZEM-031-DC-6_5-100V-20A-4-in-1-Digital-Display-LCD-Screen-Voltage-Current-Power-Energy-Meter-p-1111791.html
Isn't static electricity usually measured in the kV?
I get the ground loop thing, but since they're not electrically
connected, I'm going to ground my frames and rails from a separate
ground right next to their end of the roof, for the unlikely instance
of lightning. The redwood would be the most likely strike point, with
the power poles coming a close second, and the house/panels 3rd. SWAG
I'm glad I don't live in your Lightning Alley.
Perhaps they should rename it BangBad? (mindless Blue State humor)
PeaceFair looks a mite like a Bayite, enough that both could have come
from the same factory. Perhaps I'll treat my Bayites a bit more
cautiously from now on, since I hadn't been thinking about static
damage.
Gotta get those panels UP!
--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
When I was a test engineer I destroyed 20V-rated components by
applying 22V to them.
The electrical system of a WW2 sub was similar to that of a hybrid
electric vehicle or a solar battery with generator backup:
https://maritime.org/doc/fleetsub/elect/chap3.htm#fig3-06
-jsw
I think the marketing guys sell on the "destroy voltage" numbers
rather than the "running voltage" figures Engineering gives them,
thinking it will entice more purchasers. Time was, marketing used to
have the interests of the company in mind. Unfortunately, that time
is long past. Now they think that higher sales numbers (even if they
include all the free warranty replacements) are good. <sigh>
My favorite LED flashlights use a Cree XM-L T6 bulb running 900LM
(lumen) max, but Chiwanese vendors are calling them 2000, 2200, 2500,
5000, and 6000LM to grab sales. AFAIC, they're bright enough, have a
zoom shroud, 3 brightness modes, flasher mode, and SOS mode, and cost
only $5 on sale, so I'm happy.
Verily! Rheostat clutches? Arc chutes? Luckily, our control panels
are smaller and less expensive nowadays. I imagine that amperages
were slightly high in those boats. There were no figures quoted.
I'd like to have a new replacement copy or two of their battery banks,
though.
--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.