Fan..brushless motor fan as you hose or mop it out with any good
dishwashing detergent. Simple Green, though I prefer Dawn dish washing
detergent for greasy stuff, like 2 stroke mix
Rinse well. Dont turn the lights off or on for a couple hours either
now or after.
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I just spilled about half a gallon of mixed gas on my garage floor. I
mopped it up with paper towels, and it evaporated. There's a strong smell
of gas present, though. What can I do? Spread some soapy detergent and
power wash it?
Sudsy ammonia would cut the grease as well as other strong detergents.
You might try cheap kitty litter to soak up the excess grease first.
Concrete is like a gray sponge unless you have sealed/painted it.
What you smell is the gasoline that remains in the porous concrete. It is
dispersed therein and in time will evaporate and the smell lwill go away,
slowly. The oil in the gas is another matter. Don't ask me how I know this
but: You can heat one of the oily spots with a torch and the vapor driven
out will ignite with a small "poof". Not recommended.
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 07:24:12 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Tom
Kendrick quickly quoth:
Premix is only slightly oily, 4oz/gal.
This is a perfect time to remind everyone (who hasn't already sealed
their concrete) WHY we seal concrete. Sealed, that would have been a
half hour cleanup and no odor the next day.
You might want to clean and seal your garage/shop floors before this
happens to you.
- Metaphors Be With You -
I didn't have any grease, just mixed gas for my weeder and chainsaw. I just
went out there this morning, and there's not a mark or trace on the
concrete, which is not what I expected with the oil in the gas. It does
still smell of gas, though. I'll give it a bit and then soap it up and blow
it off with the power washer.
I do need to get a bag of kitty litter to keep for messy situations all over
the house. That stuff's handy, but one never thinks of buying unless they
own a cat.
Half a gallon of gas is a very large amount of gas spilled. It can
produce a serious explosion.
First, do NOT use any switches (light switches etc). Do not open the
garage door using your automatic opener. Open it manually by
disconnecting the chain. Go to your breaker panel, assuming that it is
not in the garage, and turn off the garage circuit.
Your cleanup plan makes good sense to me, paper towels, etc.As long as
there is a strong smell of gas, there is a possibility of explosion.
Speaking of which...
I have a newly-poured shop floor that probably needs to be sealed before I
move anything onto it. The contractor suggested painting it, but I'm a
little afraid of creating a slip and fall hazard...
Anybody had experiences, good or bad, with various sealers?
seal it and then paint it. Depending on how smooth the concrete was
finished you can add sand ingredient to the paint so that it will no be
slippery when wet. The problem with the sand is that it makes it harder
to sweep up since the roughness of the finish holds onto the dirt.
Painting any floor is a matter of good prep work. If you dont prep it
right the paint will not adhere properly and make a mess.
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:18:53 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Jerry Foster" quickly quoth:
I painted my previously-sealed gar^H^H^Hshop floor and it's not slick
at all unless oil or water are spilled on it. Just remember to be
careful when it's wet. It doesn't make that much difference in
slickness dry. I used a plain porch and floor paint which holds up to
anything normal, but dragging things across it takes it up. It was 1/3
the cost and 1/20th the hassle of epoxy.
I've only used grout and tile sealers, but here's the 411:
Don't use any sealer for 4-6 weeks after a slab is poured. Ask your
concrete guy what he uses and why.
When it comes to most sealers/adhesives, the solvent-based stuff is
head and shoulders above the waterborne stuff for durability.
P.S: Concrete stains are pissy products which are harder than hell to
put on well so they don't look mottled. Avoid them if you have some
creamy concrete, some etched, and some exposed aggregate like one
client of mine did last March. I had her sign a waiver before I did it
and she ended up painting it with the same company's concrete paint.
I'll use an oil-based (vs. waterborne) stain next time, if at all, and
I'll use the best sprayer I can buy.
- Metaphors Be With You -
I've relied on that method to clean concrete as long as I can remember. I
was introduced to Oil-Dri back in '57, when I was hired by Sperry Utah as a
trainee machinist. They had containers all around the shop for the machine
operators to use as needed to help keep the floor dry. Most of our
machines ran coolant.
You can remove oil and grease stains from concrete that have been there for
years simply by washing the area well with Stoddard solvent (paint thinner
works equally as well), then covering the washed area with Oil-Dri. You
should then saturate the OIl-Dri with more solvent, so it stays wet for a
prolonged period of time. The fluid slowly penetrates the concrete,
liquefying the old oil and grease, then it's dragged to the surface and
absorbed by the Oil-Dri as the solvent evaporates. A perfectly clean
floor may require a second repetition, but it works, and very well.
That's what I did, and that's what it did. I was expecting a lingering odor
for a while, but today you wouldn't know it even happened. I thought the
oil would stain the floor, too, but not so. I'm amazed.