Table material for CNC Router!

Synthetic countertop slab?

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things)

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

Are you talking about presswood countertop with a plastic laminate surface? I don't think so. For one thing, the screw threads would hold for only one use. For another, the coolant would drip through the holes and seep under the laminate, creating havoc. No, that's not an option. Sorry.

My guess is that Boris is referring to synthetic resin based marble looking stuff used for kitchen counter tops.

I've a small CNC router with a table about 450mm x 450mm. The table is made from piece of black plastic approximately 25mm thick.

I don't know what sort of plastic it is. It's quite tough, easy to drill and tap. I don't think it's PVC - it doesn't melt when drilled fast and it doesn't grab with a sharp drill bit like PVC.

I think the plastic had a former life as a bed of nails test jig for electronics if that helps you track it down.

ace? I don't think so. For one thing, the screw threads would hold for only one use. For another, the coolant would drip through the holes and seep un der the laminate, creating havoc. No, that's not an option. Sorry.

Well, that might be something to consider. I don't have major heat issues, but whatever I end up with would have to have a higher melting point that s tandard acetyl.

I don't think Corian or Staron would work. They're plastic (acrylic or polyester) with solids embedded.

- I am a Transfinancial--A rich person born in a poor person's body. Please stop the hate by sending me money to resolve my money identity disorder. --anon

You don't need coolant to drill aluminum. Commercially, most cutting of aluminum today is done dry. "Coolant," when it's used, is there mostly for its lubricating properties, to improve finish, not to cool. In drilling, its main function is to help clear chips. That shouldn't be a problem when you're just drilling a few mounting holes.

You'll need drainage if you're going to cut wet. Most plastics aren't going to produce very strong threads. Drilling most composites wears tools out a lot faster than aluminum does.

If you can afford the aluminum, that's probably your best bet.

I thinks Boris was talking about Corian and similar materials. The stuff can be had quite thick and can be glued. It is quite stable, dense, wears well, and is pretty slick. Of course water doesn't bother it so I would imagine using water soluble coolant would be OK. Eric

would be easier to drill, and also be waterproof, and perhaps a bit more du rable than the MDF. Any ideas?

Ed, I am using a high speed router, not a Bridgeport, so I cannot cut stand ard aluminum dry. We are talking about 4 to 6mm endmills running at 10Krpm. There are lead-filled aluminum alloys which I can cut dry, but I can't get a square meter sheet of the stuff, nor would I want to.

I suppose I could use Aluminum, but it would be slow, and I'd have to tap the holes. I like the quick and dirty method of sinking deck screws into the MDF. Corian sounds worth trying.

No. That would suck. I was thinking of synthetic stuff.

How about phenolic?

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things)

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

and also some wood and machinable aluminum. I would like to have a table w hich would allow me to cut wet, which I would be doing only occasionally. I could get a slotted aluminum table easily enough, but I kind of enjoy just drilling mounting holes where I need them. The first option would be a sol id piece of aluminum, but then I would need coolant to drill the mounting h oles. I'm wondering if there might be some composite material out there whi ch would be easier to drill, and also be waterproof, and perhaps a bit more durable than the MDF. Any ideas?

I've been using the white plastic "lumber" from home depot to make various fixtures, including vacuum plates for my (much smaller) mill. It works grea t, but I don't know if it's available in larger sizes.

For either aluminum or Corian, I think that roll taps instead of the normal cutting taps would be the best choice. You need a precise tap drill size (*absolutely* not the same as for cutting taps), but you don't have to worry about chips from the tapping accumulating in the bottom of the hole -- there *are* none.

Enjoy, DoN.

It's available in sheets. Maybe not from HD, but it's out there.

Interesting. I haven't seen what you are describing. How would you rate the surface flatness? I'd prefer not to have to face the whole board.

I found something called Tricoya, which is water resistant MDF designed for outdoor use. It is fairly cheap, and comes with a 50 year guarantee! Only up to 18mm thick, but I could work with that. It claims amazing properties for both moisture resistance and dimensional stability

Not sure about this. Since these taps compress the material, wouldn't they push some of it up from the table surface? Also, my impression of Corian is that it is fairly brittle. I'd think you would just want a standard cuttin g tap for brittle materials.

Was he referring to cellular PVC trim boards, such as AZEK? Due to its 4-6x price over doug fir here in OR, I never worked with it. But it's air-bubble-filled plastic and likely wouldn't pass the heat test, though it would have no trouble with moisture from coolants. A bit of mounding from direct installation of screws is also likely, as it is with TREX decking and similar products.

- I am a Transfinancial--A rich person born in a poor person's body. Please stop the hate by sending me money to resolve my money identity disorder. --anon

Maybe. It has a fascinating story either way.

- I am a Transfinancial--A rich person born in a poor person's body. Please stop the hate by sending me money to resolve my money identity disorder. --anon

Countersink it a little before running the tap in. Maybe a single thread depth.

It is worth an experiment if you have a scrap sample of it to try.

Enjoy, DoN.