Taper Attachment

I've been playing with the idea of making a taper attachment for PM1440
for a while, but because most of the stuff I do is within the range of
the compound I have just been using that. Well, a buddy of mine asked
me to make some longer tapers yesterday and he's willing to pay a fair
rate, so I move that up to "next project" status.
I don't really want to remove the back splash from the lathe, so here is
my thought. Put the pivot support near the head with the pivot center
as close to exactly halfway between the bed and the splash guard. The
back not the one over the chuck. Then make two or three swing ends.
Maybe one at about 8 inches for short steep tapers, one at 20 inches,and
one at the full end of the bed for really long tapers. My thought is
that both ends of the linear rail can be held in a pinch collar so the
swing end can just be machined straight. Loosen the collars. Adjust
the position, and lock it in place. I know it may be a bit fiddley, but
nothing a brass hammer can't be used to adjust. If I need to use a
different swing end bracket I can unbolt the collar from the bracket it
is on, remove the linear rod and replace it with a longer or shorter
one, and slide the collar and mount on to line up with the desired swing
end bracket. The best part is that as long as I record everything in my
notebook I don't have to make everything at once. Just the part I need
right now. I could of course just use 1 swing end bracket, and have
three sets of mounting holes, but I think if I have to do much of this
work I'd like to leave the brackets in place, and just remove the
bracket on the cross slide and the linear rail and its mounts when not
in use. It would make setups much faster when I need it, and I don't
think the adjustable and pivot brackets would be in the way when the
rail is off. They might catch some chips, but that's about it.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
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P.S. The taper requirement in this case is not super precise so I could probably get away with setting up and using the compound in 3 or 4 setup positions and carefully blending in the ends of the cuts, but if it works out I'll wind up making a bunch of them, and I'd like to be able to reduce the cost (in time) for larger orders. The materials machines nicely and fast (416 stainless) so I could do them very fast if I could take the finish cut in one pass with the power feed.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
P.P.S Its something I would do while the CNC mills are tied up running jobs and my next jobs are CAMed up and ready to go.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
What is the diameter of the material and length of the taper. I made a fixture some years ago to turn a long taper on 1/4" material over about 8" without a normal taper turning attachment and it worked great, some details here
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. It could be adapted for larger material but relied on the flexibility of the rod so may not scale up much.
Reply to
David Billington
While the taper does not have to be exact the finish has to be pretty smooth. Figured to finish pass with vertical shear then polish. There is some flex on this part. The overall length is 10.75 inches. The tapered portion is about 10 inches tapering from .578 to about .735. It will flex a lot less than your 1/4 inch rod.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
Well, my idea turned out to be not so clever. I can't just leave the brackets for the adjustable end of my taper turning attachment on the lathe. I have a DRO bracket on the carriage that would hit them. I guess I'll just have to pick some good places for mounting it and plan to remove it when its not in use. Oh, well.
Reply to
Bob La Londe

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