It works best if the meat is frozen. Ditto for running the meat thru a wood chipper...
It works best if the meat is frozen. Ditto for running the meat thru a wood chipper...
True..but Ive run enough meat through my 20" Walker Turner variable speed WITH 2 range gearbox to discover it cuts fresh meat pretty damned well.
Gunner
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do something damned nasty to all three of them.
Here's one way of doing it-
H.
Don't know about all meats, but I broke down enough beef in my mom's grocery store growing up to know if your blades are sharp you can cut all day long on stuff if its kept at the required (by health codes) temperatures. Even before we had a refrigerated meat department (30 years ago) we would only cut stuff fresh out of the cooler, and then immediately packaged the cuts to go in the meat cases or put the left over sections back in the walking cooler. Nothing ever got warm. You know too. That's when it got dangerous. At about 40 degrees beef starts to get sloppy and it will gum up on the blade and suck your hand into the saw. At 33-35 degrees it just whizzes through the saw.
I saw another way, guy attached a ring gear from a torque converter to the bottom band wheel and built a drive using a starter pinion for metal cutting.
Sadly, I didn't get a chance to chat, it was an estate sale, his.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Wow what a train wreck on the way!
I'd just buy a nice or get a nice 90V DC motor and a speed controller - or a three phase motor and a 3P controller.
The latter is stock items. Motors are often for the taking at motor repair places - they might want a fee for cleaning and checking...
VFN as I recall is the variable frequency controller that drives motors. Single phase and it will generate three.
Mart> Here's one way of doing it-
mine would
Someone during the day used to do that at the votech college in Wichita repeatedly. I was doing the machining evening class and many times spent much of an evening cutting 2" aluminium with a hacksaw as it was quicker than the bandsaw. The lecturers were helpful but didn't have access to other replacement blades.
--I use my Jet bandsaw for cutting aluminum plate. Best to use 'beater' blades; i.e. bent but still sharp, otherwise they'll drift a lot.
Here's one I've never seen, only heard described as something that U-Haul did in making trailers, maybe 30 years ago.
Allegedly, it was a means making cuts much cleaner than a torch in stock too hard for an ordinary band saw and which took too long to cut with an abrasive cutoff.
Anybody ever see this in operation? Or know that it's just a yarn?
OK, I just KNOW someone here is thinking about trying this. Post a video please.
Maaaaybe, but not with my saw. LOL.
(...)
Did they have a set of carbon brushes grounding the blade? The neoprene tires on my bandsaw wheels would prevent the necessary current flow. That is a good thing because it would toast the bearings muy pronto.
--Winston
With an industrial grade saw with lots of hp, you can cut just using friction. No teeth necessary on the blade.
Dan
Not all bandsaws have rubber bands. The one we used for cutting meat in my mom's grocery store did not.
(...)
Heidi Klum: Oooh dash baaad.
Imagine the havoc created by current flow through the wheel bearings!
--Winston
You don't even have to fool about with all that electrical stuff. Just put the blade in up side down and set the speed to High. It is called "friction sawing" and works on all metals. The blade doesn't cut and so heats the material and even up side down teeth will rake molten metal away from the work..
Sounds rather horrendous but all/most DoAll saws were manufactured to allow this.
Cheers,
John B. (johnbslocomatgmaildotcom)
Where do you get 1/8" bimetal bandsaw blades? What's the TPI?
-Frank
Friction sawing doesn't require all that much HP. I can do 1/8" SS on my little 16" DoAll with only 3/4 HP, but the top speed of 1500 FPM is a bigger limitation than the power. The 36" saw I used to have had a 2 or 3 HP motor and ran at around 6000 FPM. It cut 1/2" SS pretty well, and 3/4" in a pinch. The big dedicated friction saws can run over
10,000 FPM.
Thanks for the info. I never heard of friction sawing of this type.
Perhaps the reported use of an electric arc across the workpiece/table was a solution for a particularly difficult application, say, cutting heavy structural shapes where ordinary friction sawing bogged down.
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