I think everyone's comments on the axle location is based on the
camera angle of the original photo, combined with the width of the
fenders. It makes it look like the near side tandem is right at the
back of the trailer, but looking at the far side fender shows it is
actually much closer to a standard 60/40 setup (on a tandem, measure
to the pivot pin on the walking beam between the springs). If you
post a square side-on shot, I suspect most of these comments will
So with a 10k rating, I assume there are brakes on both axles? In my
state, trailers with that sort of rating also need to be inspected
(the cutoff for brakes and inspections is 3k, here).
So what'd you haul home that needed that sort of capacity, a VMC?
Forklift? Wasp radial? CNC plasma table? Several pallets of
untempered import hammer heads? Tire from an earth mover to be used
as a jungle gym?
The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.
Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they
supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would
drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives
far enough forward? Is that right?
Depends on the design but what you have is right for many.
When empty they will tilt up so you can load. Some use hydraulics,
others use a sliding axle system, others just gravity.
That trailer you posted looks like a standard beavertail that doesn't
actually tilt. You drop the rear ramps and drive up those.
This is where picture decoding skills come helpful. On the left side
-- closest to the photographer -- you see the part ahead of the wheels
enlarged, and the area behind the wheels obscured.
Now, if you would look at the right side of the trailer -- farthest
from the photographer -- the trailer proportions do not look so
I went to the auction site and actually looked at it before bidding,
as I needed a trailer ASAP and did not want to byu a lemon.
After putting about 300 miles on it, this one does not seem to be a
lemon, however the electricals do not work. Also, the front lifting
jack clearly bent itself out of position.
I hope the "factual" item isn't a rating plate on the trailer. That
plate is what the DOT goes by to determine if the trailer is CDL level
If it says 12K I hope you have a CDL. Unless you like large fines.
The electrical is a simple problem you've probably already fixed -
half the time they just let all the lamps beat themselves to death.
LED Lights are the way to go on any trailers, they ride too rough.
Might want to move the tail lights closer to the rear, they
shouldn't be set back more than a few inches from the corners. You
can always take 3/8 round bar and bend up some protection hoops around
the tail light fixtures.
The best trick is to wire it like a Commercial trailer with separate
Stoplights (takes 4 tail lights) and put a 7-pin or 9-Pin commercial
round FEMALE connector on the tongue. Then it can work with either
style of tow vehicle tail lights, and you can make separate connector
cables to adapt to the truck you are towing it with.
Straight-through cable if you rent a Semi Tractor, 7 Commercial to 7
Travel Trailer if you have your pickup wired like that, 7 Commercial
to 6-pin round...
Don't do any more to the tongue jack than make sure it didn't rip
anything, and replace the bolts. If you fix it, you'll just drag it
in a driveway and bend it again.
If you really insist, you'll have to put on a reinforced "Skid Shoe"
to take the brunt of a dragging. Or get a big cast-iron caster wheel
and hard-mount it right there so it rolls over the driveway apron.
Look at the wheels they mount under the back bumpers of motorhomes for