What do you think about this trailer

wrote:


Seconded. That would be perfect for Ig, who moves his own things around a lot and could deliver his sold surplus finds locally for a choice added fee if he chose to do so.

http://www.lift-a-load.com/tongue.html Very cool. From ground height to dock height.
I'm sure Ig (who sucks) can find one in perfect condition for twelve bucks somewhere, even if it means a road trip.
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http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/rental/browse/view/?category=Trucks%2C+Trailers+%26+Utility+Vehicles&subcategory=Trailers&id 60
Those are really cool, but this is a good alternative for less money: http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T6
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ATP wrote:

Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.
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The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got the machine in my garage.
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Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives far enough forward? Is that right?
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Ignoramus7432 wrote:

Depends on the design but what you have is right for many.
When empty they will tilt up so you can load. Some use hydraulics, others use a sliding axle system, others just gravity.
That trailer you posted looks like a standard beavertail that doesn't actually tilt. You drop the rear ramps and drive up those.
--
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It does tilt, for sure. I cannot try it right now, because it is loaded.
i
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Yes - that's a pintle loop sliding out the left edge of the picture. Since we've previously established that you don't have a large commercial-type truck, you are not equipped to pull this thing. Putting a pintle hook in the receiver of a pickup does not magically make the pickup suitable to pull a pintle-loop level of load. This thing wants a dump truck to pull it.
Keep looking.
I think the suggestion to look for a gooseneck is a good one, if hauling with a pickup (you've got what - a 3/4 ton?) - having experienced a trailer removing the bumper of a 1-ton crew-cab truck, it's the sort of experience I'd suggest avoiding. A gooseneck is a much more robust hitch, that puts the trailer load in a far better place.
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Why, I always use a pintle hitch for my enclosed trailer, works great.
I have a 3/4 ton truck.

I am not sure what it wants, personaly, but it tows just fine, as I discovered 10 minutes ago.

I personally have a proper trailer hitch. A gooseneck is a fifth wheel setup, right? So it uses up the trailed bed space?
i
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Ignoramus7432 wrote:

Yes, it will tow fine unloaded, however you will not be able to load much cargo without exceeding your hitch tongue weight rating. Those dump trucks that this trailer is intended to be towed by have tongue weight capacities several times that of your hitch.
Since this trailer is intended to be towed by those medium duty trucks, it's curb weight alone will be a good chunk of your total trailer capacity and you will not be able to reach the trailer's cargo rating without significantly exceeding your hitch rating.

A gooseneck hitch takes up pickup bed space, however there is still quite a bit of useable space for lower toolboxes, fuel cans, rigging supplies and the like. While your receiver hitch can handle a 500# tongue weight (1,000# with a weight distributing hitch), a gooseneck hitch can take 3,000# or more of hitch weight (subject to vehicle ratings) and it places it properly on your rear axle which also puts the pivot point at a better location.
A typical 3/4T pickup can handle a 10,000# gross trailer weight with a 1,000# tongue weight on a receiver hitch. A typical 3/4T pickup can handle a 15,000#+ gross trailer weight with a 1,500#+ pin weight on a gooseneck hitch. The difference becomes more dramatic as you move up to a 1T or larger truck since the receiver hitch capacity doesn't really increase.
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Ditto. What Pete said.
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Well, I picked it up today (and I need to use it today, also).
It is not too front heavy. As a matter of fact, I can lift the lunette eye by myself, though it is heavy. I can move this trailer also, though it is hard to turn. The lights need replacement or rewiring.
The bed really does tilt.
I will see about the brake situation.
i
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I think everyone's comments on the axle location is based on the camera angle of the original photo, combined with the width of the fenders. It makes it look like the near side tandem is right at the back of the trailer, but looking at the far side fender shows it is actually much closer to a standard 60/40 setup (on a tandem, measure to the pivot pin on the walking beam between the springs). If you post a square side-on shot, I suspect most of these comments will stop.
So with a 10k rating, I assume there are brakes on both axles? In my state, trailers with that sort of rating also need to be inspected (the cutoff for brakes and inspections is 3k, here).
So what'd you haul home that needed that sort of capacity, a VMC? Forklift? Wasp radial? CNC plasma table? Several pallets of untempered import hammer heads? Tire from an earth mover to be used as a jungle gym?
--Glenn Lyford
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The photo is more confusing than helpful. It makes it look shorted and heavier on the nose than it really is.
Here's a better photo that I made after loading a 6,000lbs crane on it:
http://goo.gl/Gbnn3
The trailer has a 14 foot bed.
I have a feeling, based on something factual, that this is actually a 12k trailer, but it is titled as 10k, which is fine with me.
i
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On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:47:03 -0500, Ignoramus8416

Proof that a pic can confuse things. I would have said nine feet with six ahead of the wheels.
Karl
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This is where picture decoding skills come helpful. On the left side -- closest to the photographer -- you see the part ahead of the wheels enlarged, and the area behind the wheels obscured.
Now, if you would look at the right side of the trailer -- farthest from the photographer -- the trailer proportions do not look so crazy.
I went to the auction site and actually looked at it before bidding, as I needed a trailer ASAP and did not want to byu a lemon.
After putting about 300 miles on it, this one does not seem to be a lemon, however the electricals do not work. Also, the front lifting jack clearly bent itself out of position.
i
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On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:40:28 -0500, Ignoramus8416

The electrical is a simple problem you've probably already fixed - half the time they just let all the lamps beat themselves to death. LED Lights are the way to go on any trailers, they ride too rough.
Might want to move the tail lights closer to the rear, they shouldn't be set back more than a few inches from the corners. You can always take 3/8 round bar and bend up some protection hoops around the tail light fixtures.
The best trick is to wire it like a Commercial trailer with separate Stoplights (takes 4 tail lights) and put a 7-pin or 9-Pin commercial round FEMALE connector on the tongue. Then it can work with either style of tow vehicle tail lights, and you can make separate connector cables to adapt to the truck you are towing it with.
Straight-through cable if you rent a Semi Tractor, 7 Commercial to 7 Travel Trailer if you have your pickup wired like that, 7 Commercial to 6-pin round...
Don't do any more to the tongue jack than make sure it didn't rip anything, and replace the bolts. If you fix it, you'll just drag it in a driveway and bend it again.
If you really insist, you'll have to put on a reinforced "Skid Shoe" to take the brunt of a dragging. Or get a big cast-iron caster wheel and hard-mount it right there so it rolls over the driveway apron. Look at the wheels they mount under the back bumpers of motorhomes for inspiration.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Ignoramus8416 wrote:

I hope the "factual" item isn't a rating plate on the trailer. That plate is what the DOT goes by to determine if the trailer is CDL level or not.
If it says 12K I hope you have a CDL. Unless you like large fines.
--
Steve W.

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"Steve W." wrote:

On that subject, how are you doing getting your CDL Iggy?
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There is no tag left on this trailer.

I read 1.5 books out of 3 by now. I will probably take the next in 4-6 weeks.
i
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