Where to buy a welder cord

Does this equipment really need to be plugged in? Can you just hard-wire (wire-nut) the units to a local box, or to the breaker panel? I've done that on a number of occasions. Also, #6 wire is pretty hefty, even for 50 A, esp. for only a 6 foot cord. Heavier gauge wire is needed only for long runs, and the cord certainly need not be heavier than the wire in the pipe/raceway.

Also, is the actual current draw really a full 30/50A, or is that just a "rating"? And, is the current draw continuous? My welder uses #12 wire in the factory cord (60 A breaker), and #12 wire is more than adequate for 30 A continuous loads, like a dryer.

If you must follow some code and go with #6, you may have to go with heavy "SJ" cord and expensive plugs. But wire-nutting inside a legal junction box (deep 5", etc) should be within code as well. Ultimately stuff is likely wire-nutted somewhere anyway, unless the electrican made the run a "home run".

I need a "service disconnect" which the plug and receptical do nicely. If I hard wire it I need some other kind of disconnect, I might use those little panels they use for A/C units outside with the pull out disconnects.

I did find this:

It needs to be to code, so per the name plate ratings on the machines, I need 30A and 50A services.

Thank You, Randy

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The Eagle plug is a hard rubber case, clamps down hard, doesn't shatter when dropped.

I do questi> FIFTY TWO SMACKERS? Gulp .. try this one, it's what I use:

FIFTY TWO SMACKERS? Gulp .. try this one, it's what I use:

Grant

Randy wrote:

I use Home Depot 50a 3/4 wire plugs, they are quite indestructible. Very well made and not too expensive.

I might do that, (NEMA 14 SERIES) I don't need the extra wire, but you get more wires for less money. And Home depot sells them.

Thank You, Randy

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Mike Berger wrote in article ...

I believe if a stove cord would be correct, it would be called a "stove/welder cord."