wires are metal ...

On Wed, 25 Sep 2019 12:38:06 -0400
<snip>


I hear yah :)
I originally bought my Fluke 87 to try figuring out an intermittent problem at a rural tower site. Base station was occasionally blow a fuse. The 87 has MIN/MAX capture capabilities. It didn't work out though, really need something with more inputs and logging abilities...
So I started moving an added inline fused lead around, see if it blew or not. Turned out being a bad high voltage transformer, very expensive and not something any of us had ever seen go bad before.
This was many years ago. The 87 hadn't been out long then. Nowadays there are some pretty nice looking meters for not so much money that would be great for stuff like that.
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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wrote:

I use TP4000ZCs to datalog slowly changing voltages, temperatures and currents on a laptop. (Amazon.com product link shortened)
The data outputs are optically isolated so the meters commons won't short different voltages together. The TP4000ZC takes primary or rechargeable AA cells and the laptop can operate at a remote site from a jumpstarter battery and inverter or auto-air adapter. The older, thicker laptops I use have PC Card and ExpressCard slots that take extra COM or USB port expanders.
The setup is clumsier and slower than a good industrial datalogger but much cheaper, and has the laptop's user interface and huge storage capacity and the versatility of all the meters' input ranges.
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On Wed, 25 Sep 2019 16:12:43 -0400
<snip>

Most every time you post a link to something like that I go have a look-see :)
I think my Fluke 87 cost around $325 in the early 90's. I'll bet the two meters would swap back and forth between their rubber armor seamlessly...
I bought several used DVM's last winter than need some love. A B&K 2810 for parts or repair. I fried my 2810 around last December doing something really stupid and I miss it. Also a Fluke 37 which looks like an early 87 series functionally and a Fluke 8010A which I think needs some serious switch cleaning/repair. Maybe I'll get the urge to fix them this season ;-)
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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wrote:

ANd the tranny WAS just changed - I'd definitely be looking at downshift wire - - -
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On Wed, 25 Sep 2019 23:37:16 -0400

Maybe, the M40 is the THM400 transmission. Those trucks also used the 700R4 and THM350 which wouldn't apply then. If he does have the M40 then he could check it by turning on the key and depressing the gas pedal to the floor. See if it blows a good fuse. There was a procedure for checking the downshift function in that manual...
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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On 9/26/2019 7:36 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

to see what's also hooked to that fuse - I'll also be checking those diagrams that Leon posted the links to . Lots of good leads from y'all , I've been to Memphis to take the grandson home from his 2 week visit .
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wrote:

And pay special attention to the place the wire is caught between the bell housing and engine block, right? ;)
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wrote:


Check for any extra connections between the battery and radio. It could be a loose connection. You'll find your extra amperage going to warm that connection. Alt1: Run a separate fuse to a switched hot. Alt2: earphones and your phone/MP3 player are a cheap and easy pair.
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On 10/5/2019 6:12 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:



solenoid/wiring inside the trans . Got the new solenoid right here , just need a couple of days to get it installed ... figure it would be good to go ahead with the axle gear swap and installing the correct drive gears in the trans . That means I need about 3-5 days that I can do without the truck since I'm getting into stuff I've never done before .
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On Monday, October 7, 2019 at 9:27:11 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

hat he just

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.
That business of the trans lockup and radio being powered by the same fuse sounds an awful (and I do me awful) lot like my hundred year old house wiri ng. It's hard to label the panel when the house wiring has been wired somew hat like a bowl of spaghetti.
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On 10/7/2019 9:28 AM, rangerssuck wrote:




"aux/radio" or somethin' . Next up is the heater fan , I might have pulled and left the fuse out while diagnosing . I hope . It was working so it's probably something simple/stupid that I've done .
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When I worked on my truck's wiring I marked each connector that I had checked and cleaned by painting a spot of white nail polish on both halves and writing the connector number from the schematic.
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 12:42:32 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

Smart man, labeling things. Digital pics of before (assembled) and after (torn apart) are good, too.
I recently picked up a new Dymo labelmaker. Wow, what a difference from the old plastic letters to the new electronic labels. Man was it worth the price! LabelManager 280, $34 at Amazon,plus $10.68 for 4 extra rolls of labels.
If you have more to do, get one of these things. The cheap Chiwanese labels work fine with them, too. I'm decluttering the entire house and shop, putting the things I keep in clear plastic boxes with labels, and ordering them better than I ever had before. It's starting to look sane around here as a result, and I can find stuff and tools again.
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I labelled wiring harnesses with white printed heatshrink when [big auto company] was paying for the supplies. At home I've had better luck with white nail polish and a fine point Sharpie than any stick-on labels on connectors that don't have smooth flat surfaces and get hot.
The factory manuals for my vehicles have good drawings showing connector locations, and others that gave the individual connectors' wire color coding. I only had to match the connectors to the drawings and label them, which I did as I cleaned them to mark my progress. The pins are retained by red tabs that can be removed with needle nose pliers to extract individual pins.
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Did you check if the misconnected plug was grounding the fused wire through the internal switch? The solenoid may not be bad.
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On 10/7/2019 11:15 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

but with it unplugged it doesn't ... so I think I've either got a burned up coil or grounded wire somewhere . I need to change the oil and filter anyway , so I'll be able to check it all while I've got it open .
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 13:51:53 -0500
<snip>

The oil level on my older version is higher than the pan. So oil will start to run out soon as you crack the seal. Before I installed a drain plug I would loosen the bolts such that it would come loose at a strategic corner with a large catch pan located there. Even after some leaks out into the pan the darn thing is heavy with oil. It was always a MESS, hence adding a drain plug :)
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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On 10/7/2019 2:14 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:

welding a bung in , but am concerned that it'll warp .
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 18:43:07 -0500

First time I tried brazing on a 1/2 inch nut. Didn't like at all how it looked, turned out. So I patched over the spot with maybe a 3/16 inch by 3 inch round punch out. I MIG'd that one in place using .025 wire. Threaded a 1/4 x 24 tpi hole and used matching bolt with aluminum washer. What I had on hand at the time. That held till the pan rusted out and started leaking...
The second time I used an 1/2 x 18 bolt with a 1/4 x 24 inch bolt through it to act as the drain plug. Some simple lathe work. Went in easy and hasn't leaked so far (maybe 6 years).
Some images here:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/yyeg562q/
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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wrote:

Nice, and no warpage from welding.
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