Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.
You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.
I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.
Have you tried the HF 'roping gloves'? They fit my hands perfectly and have
become my favorite gloves of all time. They have an added patch around the grip
area for the rope, but are thin and flexible, yet pretty good wearing. About 8
bucks, but they have them on sale frequently. They don't show up on the web
site when I search, I guess they are a 'store only' item.
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 23:23:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus8643 quickly quoth:
I have dozens of pairs of various gloves and have found that if I use
them for their intended purpose, they last a helluva lot longer.
Some are rubber (pvc?) coated (for glass) or dipped (for flagstone)
for slippery work.
Some are cotton canvas or knit for gardening.
black dots make a big difference in their usable life.
Some are jersey for winter warmth. I don't stay out long. ;)
Some are split leather for tough work. These bleed the color onto your
palms and wrists. Lovely.
I generally wear nitriles or latex for chemical work and cleanups.
I wear XL split leather over jersey for doing blackberry vine removal.
Most of the above gloves come in 6-pair packs for under $6 on sale.
Nitriles go for as little as $4/100, latex $3/100.
And I have some of the U.S. General mechanic's gloves which work well
but die early. I probably need to try a better brand. They're padded
with leather palms, and the palms split/go away.
Or one of these kevlars?
These deer/pigskin types are on sale and I'll try these next.
I'll have to try these TIG gloves, too.
The 90913s (dipped gloves) seem to work well and hold up under many
harsh conditions. I've done lots of gardening work and installed
about 150' of flagstone pathway with one pair so far. They're the
closest to general purpose gloves I own. But when they get wet, they
need to be washed out and dried in the dryer or they reek from mildew.
The knit backs let out regular hand moisture, but the rubber fronts
keep in the wet if you get them soaked.
Try those kevlars for your heavy sharp work and let us know how you
like them, Ig.
Even more choices, but good folks to deal with and they'll offer
suggestions based on what you tell them of intended use and what price
you want to pay.
I buy my Kevlar gloves for blacksmithing from them. They sell left-hand
only pairs because most smiths wear out the left hand gloves more often
than the right. I usually order 2-3 left-hand pairs to each right/left
Mix of US made and imports.
"SELECT SIDE SPLIT COWHIDE" reminds me of the "White Mule" glove that I
used to be able to get at Farm & Fleet. Comfortable, stays on, palms are
tough. Lasts for years. Made in US. $7.00
No, that isn't them. These are specifically labelled 'roping gloves' and are
easy to spot with the reinforced area that warps around the base of the thumb.
They are thicker than a TIG glove. I use them for carpentry, and even for
driving in milder weather, they have no insulation for really cold weather.
Some of the HF driving gloves are OK, but I find they are quite variable, I'll
try on several pairs and only one has the leather I like so I stick to the
Iggy: Honestly. To me, it's like buying shoes through the mail. I don't
do it, because I want to put them on and feel them. When I go to the
welding store, I try them on. And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, I have found that the
pair that fit the best, and have the best feel and touch are usually the
cheapest ones! The one with the store's name, that are probably made by
some big company with the store's name stamped on them. Look at the sales
bin. Sometimes they have the expensive ones in there that they are trying
to dump, and you get a pair for $8 that were $25 yesterday.
I have gloves that lasted for a very very long time that were less than half
the price they wanted for the best ones. Not sure if you're talking about
regular work gloves, TIG gloves, or welding gloves, but for my money, I want
to try them on. I have had casts that fit more comfortably than some of
those gloves. AND, I have found deals in those locally owned TOOL SHED TOOL
TOWN TOOL WHATEVER type stores. Those nice Makita and Craftsman work gloves
are nice. But for the price, this cheap old fart would just as soon go
through five pairs of cheaper gloves. Or even ONE that lasts longer than
those spendy pretty colorful ones.
Just me. All that extra money buys a lot of steel, gas, and rod.
Or adult beverages. Or a trip to the driving range. Or whatever winds yer
On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 10:43:04 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
snipped-for-privacy@SPAMwowway.com (DT) quickly quoth:
I could have sworn I'd seen them but they don't come up in the 47
glove types returned on a search of the HF site. I wonder if they
stopped stocking them.
On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 08:48:48 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
HINT: Do not try this with the glove on your hand. ;)
I just might give 100:1 odds against their stopping a .22 short, more
for real rounds. The thread and weave are much coarser than are used
in bulletproof vests.
Yeah, and when you're lifting heavy loads or pulling hand over fist,
those lumps between the fingers can get mighty painful.
Use my White Mule for gardening - the palms and fingers are thorn proof.
Sadly, the canvas is not, but a full leather glove in summer is a tad
warm. Blow away? More like they aren't nailed down...