Adhesive for brake lining

On a much-loved twin-tub washing machine the brake lining on the spin drier side is detaching from its metal band. The band covers about 2/3 of the circumference of the brake wheel, which (from memory) is about

4" diameter and 3/4" wide. The brake operates once per spin cycle, that is to say, at the end of spinning the washerwoman, laundrymaid or other female domestic servant (ducks as rolling pin is thrown) opens the lid, the motor stops and the brake is applied.

The machine is so old that no spare part can be found. My question is, what adhesive would be best for re-attaching the brake lining to the band? The lining appears to be made of ordinary brake lining-type material. Araldite sometimes doesn't seem to stick to metal very well and isn't very flexible when set. Contact adhesive may not be strong enough.

Any suggestions?

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm
Loading thread data ...

about

I would drill and countersink the lining, and rivet it with copper rivets if it is thick enough.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

A brake lining specialist could probably help, but I'd be inclined to fit some copper or ali rivets, countersunk into the lining as per the brake shoes of old.

We know of a good brake lining place in Northampton that we have used to get linings for the Ward 2A spindle brake.

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

formatting link

Reply to
Peter A Forbes

Thanks for the suggestions.

I should have explained that both the band and lining are quite thin and there's really not enough 'meat' for rivets. Also, the thin band may kink where it's drilled. I might try to find a brake lining specialist if I can't come up with a suitable adhesive.

Regards

Reply to
GravityArm

Gorilla glue (polyurethane) is supposed to stick to metal and is a bit more flexible than araldite. Brake liners would use a hot thermoset such as a phenolic.

Reply to
Newshound

First, I'd ask a shop who does brake liners. But I have never glued them, only riveted. Also, I think those shops are gone and only the ones left that simply swap parts.

But a suggestion completely different: Once, the tubes of race bicycles were glued to the rim. That glue sticked very well to the rim (steel or aluminium) and to the fabric of the tube (those tubes that were sewed). The glue is not very heat resistant, but quite good (if you consider the heat generated by braking on long downhills). The glue I'm talking about is a special contact cement, and I really don't suggest using the familiar brands like Pattex.

Nick

Reply to
Nick Müller

I've looked up Gorilla Glue and that may be the answer. It can be bought here in the sticks (Herefordshire); anything more exotic I'd probably have to send away for.

Thanks for the idea.

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

Nick

Thanks for the idea. I'll ask at cycle shops about the product.

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

Gorilla glue requires water to cure, and foams to fill gaps. The stuff is a mess to use. Maybe your drum liner material, if porous, can be dampened. Polyurethanes are flexible and tough as hell. However, they won't stand much heat.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor

Havn't seen the sticks, only used the liquid (for woodworking). Yes it needs one surface to be damp, but I expect the lining will absorb enough water. It wants to be clamped fairly well in place and then the expansion will extrude excess sideways; it can be trimmed off with a knife when half cured, like araldite. Keep it off your fingers until cured. It won't take much temperature but I doubt if one stop even for a big spinner will warm up the linings that much. The heat will try to go out through the metal counterface.

Reply to
Newshound

If you want to use polyurethane, try for a polyurethane sealant, comes in

310 ml cartridges for sealant guns as used in bathroom sealant, and is probably available anywhere in the stix (can be bought in Trowbridge!!).

No foam, no fuss. it just ... stix.

Reply to
Peter Fairbrother

Is that the stuff sold as 'Plastic Nails' or some such?

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

What is the make and model of this machine?

Reply to
sidevalve45

Fit a brake disc & caliper?

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

It's a Servis Model 108.

There's probably one in a museum somewhere . . .

Thanks for the interest.

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

Ah, now, there's that wrecked Jaguar I saw down at the scrapper . . .

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

There's a thought...a V-12 powered washing machine anyone?

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

no -

Plastic Nails will have a "highly inflammable" hazard warning. It might work, tho' it may well melt.

Polyurethane sealant will probably not have one of those, will have an "Xn" (noxious) "harmful" warning (probbly instead of), and will almost certainly say "polyurethane" on the tube thingthing it comes in.

epoxy should wrk too, good epoxy resists hot water well

{falls over}

Reply to
Peter Fairbrother

Thanks Peter. More useful information. I'll be shopping for the suggested products tomorrow, will do the job Sunday and will report back to the Group in a couple of weeks.

Thanks to everyone who came up with suggestions.

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

Twin-tub washing machine - spin brake lining detached from band.

When I took the brake band assembly off the machine, I could see what was not obvious before, namely that the lining was in fact riveted to the band at its inner end. This simplified the problem, as I then felt fairly confident in using an ordinary good quality impact adhesive to secure the lining to the band on the basis that it should never get really hot.

So far, so good, after several lengthy periods in use.

Thanks to all who offered advice on this OT subject.

Regards John

Reply to
GravityArm

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.