Brazing suggestions

I need to a little brazing on the engine I'm building but I don't have any kit.
Any suggestions for doing a few small jobs ? I have a plumbers propane
torch but it isn't hot enough.
thanks
Lee
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On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:34:34 +0100, **** wrote:

I uzse a special torch that has a gizmo in it that makes a vortex in the propane-air stream. Gets hot enough for brazing small parts, say, up to 1/2 inch steel bar, or cycle tubing, or similar. Cheap gadget; look for "swirl torch".
Burns the propane *much* faster than a normal torch, and the bottle will get cold after about 5 minutes.
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mattathayde had written this in response to http://polytechforum.com/modelengineering/brazing-suggestions-12004-.htm :
------------------------------------- **** wrote:

i second the better torch, i got a bernzomatic for about 30ish and with mapp it gets plenty hot, only takes 30 seconds to sweat a pipe compared to the old non vortex tipped torch that took like 2 mins+
-matt
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wrote:

Try a bigger nozzle?
If it's only for occasional use this might be your cheapest option.
Regards,
--
Steve ( out in the sticks )
Email: Take time to reply: timefrom_usenetgmx.net
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**** wrote:

What is it you're actually doing?. Do you require brazing like with a brass filler rod or can you use a lower melting point material such as a silver soldering alloy.
I have tried brazing using normal sifbronze brass filler and a MAPP torch and it will do small parts but I wouldn't do it unless I had no other option. I have OA so would that for most things. Silver solder such as easyflo is fairly easy with propane/air if the torch is of sufficient size but you lose the details control you get with the concentrated heat of OA or other oxygen/fuel torches.
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I assume you are using firebrick or insulation board below and behind to keep the heat in? I can get a fairly good red heat with my ordinary plumbing kit, enough for softer gold solders and more than enough for easyflo.
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This solved the problem for me, but I don't use firebrick. We had one of those "open" gas fires ripped out and the insulation in the fire back is some very light white sheet material (painted plack). It's insulation properties are fantastic and it's easy to cut to size.
I only use easyflo, haven't tried brass rod (yet) but I'm pretty sure it will do the do. It's not so much absolute temperature as the volume of heat you can supply eg the voltage is OK but can you deliver the current?
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