Freeing a seized nut?

Cut your losses [ no pun intended ] and split the nut with a sharp chisel to save the steering rack. Chances are trying to move it will further damage the threads at the expense of a nut.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

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Grind it off? Use a nut-cracker. No, one for metal-nuts. But you'd have to buy one and they aren't cheap.

Nick

"Talk to it nicely" is what one of our spanner monkeys#1 calls it when lighting the torch. heat, more heat, then heat it some more for good measure. #2

I'm really surprised that you drove the vehicle away without giving them the chance to rectify their mistake. I've been there, done that, and enjoyed the hire car for 3 days whilst they hastily (but correctly) re-fitted the right parts to one of my cars.

I don't use (so called) fast fit depots anymore, I'm told it's where spanner monkeys go when they can't get "another" job in a nice, clean, dealers workshop. Nowadays I call on the specialists in the field where the attention is required, if you have ever sat & watched a real tyre fitter fit & balance what is a VERY safety critical component then you'd shudder every time you drove past a fast fit.

#1 : He was a top flight works team rally mechanic, we're just taking advantage of him in his semi-retirement.

#2 : Heat is the weapon of choice for seized anythings, where heat cannot be used, soak it, soak it again, then soak it some more in a penetrating oil like Plusgas.

You must use a well fitting spanner/socket and leverage is a good thing right from the start. Don't go looking for a 3' bar after several attempts with your puny little 6" wrench. Hit it a few times if you have to, but it's important to get it right from the start. You will only make the job harder the longer you take to free it.

You are surely not suggesting that two big blokes jumping on a 6ft scaffolding pole is a bad thing?

On or around 22 May 2007 15:17:11 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net enlightened us thusly:

heat, and plenty of it. heat the nut and it'll expand.

However, if the thread's that poor, consider replacing the part. And use a more clued-up garage in future, and/or complain to the garage owner of the quality of staff.

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Many thanks to all who replied.

Fully prepared to cut the nut off, I thought it was worth first trying to loosen it. I had soaked it last night in penetrating oil, and this morning I removed the wheel, unscrewed the track rod end to give good access, then went round the nut a few times with a pair of hammers on opposite flats. Somewhat to my surprise the nut was then free to turn by hand! I removed the nut completely, and the threads were fine, as were the threads on the track rod. A coat of copperslip, and I'm now off to the garage to get the tracking set up (again).

Incidentally, the depot concerned is a supposed specialist in 4 wheel alignment, with all the high-tech kit. They actually manufacturer the equipment in the unit next door and sell it nationwide. A reminder, if we need it, that even the best kit is only as good as the guy using it.

Mike

Sorry about the multiple messages. Google kept telling me my reply had not been sent, and to try again!!!!!!!

You can borrow mine if you live near Shropshire. E-mail me at snipped-for-privacy@cantabgold.net if you want to.

Best wishes,

Chris