HP7035B - mechanical considerations

You link seems to be broken.

Guessing at what you are on about though, far better to fit a new bar than have a joint. However you are possibly going have to get some 3/8 or 10mm bar specially ground for the job.

Bob

If I cannot get 3/8th bar, it probably is better to join the bars.

Bars have tapped holes on the ends, screw bars together and braze? Then carfully grind off the excess?

I wonder if the bars could stand *not* being joined into one bar.

Is it 3/8th bar? Must be an imperial bar I think.

I'm measuring diameter with a digital micrometer. I actually can read

Yet, surely, the bar MUST be 3/8ths bar. The manufacturer surely did not get made a bar made to be just under 3/8ths.

Of course, I can get 3/8ths stainlless steel. Just cannot understand though why I'm not reading 9.5250mm. I wonder if my (cheapish) digital micrometer is suspect.

Digital is not a synonym for accurate. Compare with a drill shank which is typically 0.1mm under the marked size. HP would make things to the size they want. Their kit is full of custom parts on the electronic side. If you don't want a fit a new bar, then clock accurately in a 4 jaw chuck and drill and ream for a dowel pin in one end of each bar. Don't apply heat, they are bound to distort.

Bob

Drill the end of one bar to 1/4" for 1/2" deep then turn one end of the new bar to 1/4" for 7/16" and push and loctite then together. Clean the joint up with a bit of fine emery.

John S.