Light Oil

try back-to-black silicone spray.

all the best.mark

A good quality trumpet valve oil perhaps? Holton, Yamaha or Bach are good brands. These are generally designed not to break down into residues.

Regards,

Could you consider using a dry lube, like graphite. That would be my choice.

Joules

And my tip is petroleum.

Nick

Automatic transmission fluid?

Wes S

Try ZX1 C76 microlube, very thin oil, doesnt seem to gum things up at all. I was given a sample pack and its been very good.

hth Dave

What about clock or watch oil - formulated not to dry out.

Available from Shesto.

John Ambler Sussex, UK Return E-mails to snipped-for-privacy@skiprat.net

He tried that - it dried out.

Try the light oil sold as a laxative/stool softener. This is the same as the lubricant sold as "white oil", which is used to lubricate restaurant equipment. It is also used to lubricate hair clippers and electric shavers.

Steve R.

An addition: I have a flame-licker that I only got running with petroleum as lubricant. Tried some sewing-machine oils and they all didn't work.

Nick

The above is a good idea, but ask the chemist for "liquid paraffin" (less embarrassing!). I was going to suggest sewing machine oil too. For solid lubricants, Moly Disulphide rather than graphite. Get an "assembly paste" and burnish it on to the surfaces.

Tribology isn't an exact science!

Diesel?

The best oil I have used in just this application is some watch oil given to me 30 yrs ago, the guy who gave it to me told me it was of whale oil origin-which had the particular virtue that it never went "gummy" and this has proved to be the case. I must point out that I do not approve of the killing of whales, however good their oils are, but I have never found a better oil for this sort of purpose (poipoise?) I suspect that a watch oil from such as walshes:

be a better bet than from proops, which might just be an ordinary mineral oil thinned out with a lighter fraction that evaporates-same will happen with WD40, dry lubes as suggested might work, but may upset tolerances depends on your scale. Afraid I cant spare any remaining stock, must be only 20 cc left. Cheers, M.G.

In article , " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" writes

You might look at Carr's Micro Oil - see

I bought some a while ago; have not had occasion to try it, but its spec sounds about what you are looking for.

David

In article , David Littlewood writes

Don't you juste hate web sites that have the same address for every one of a hundred pages. Look for Soldering and Brazing/Carr's Solders and Fluxes. I know, it sounds odd, but that's where it is.

David

[snip]

They use frames, which most of the rest of the world abandoned long ago for precisely that reason. It's two pages embedded in another - one with the menu on the left, the other with the catalogue on the right. The address bar in your browser only shows you the address of the "parent" page (the frameset). But the "sub" pages (frames) do have addresses. To find the address in Firefox, you have to right click in the relevant bit of the page (somewhere on the right, in this case), then select This Frame > View Frame Info and the address will be there. There will be a similar option in IE and other browsers somewhere. Sadly, some sites won't work properly if you go "direct" like that, you might never see the menu etc. The Chronos site works though, if you have scripting turned on (it pulls a trick with the address and reloads the page).

Tim

Wow, thank you.

David

The only way I've found to do this in IE is to select 'view', 'privacy report'; somewhere in the list of files is the URL for the sub-frame you want. Martin

[snip]

I just went a tried the Windows machine in the house (I'm usually on a Mac) and in IE6, you can get the address by right-clicking (away from any images or links) and selecting Properties. No idea about IE7, not got it.

Tim