Stuart Turner Kits

Now, ISTR, "Stuart Models", as "Stuart Turner" still trade from Henley but without their models.

The standard advice has always been for the beginner to start out with their V10 model, for which all bits are supplied, and for which (relatively) full instructions are supplied in the form of an additional booklet. The building of the V10 takes you through all the machining operations which will stand you in good stead for anything else you might do, including another of their models.

The other models in their range are for more experienced constructors who can source some of the materials themselves and who can work from drawings only without any text in support.

An acquaintance of mine has recently obtained the beam engine castings from Brunel (c1955 ME series of articles), and it is certainly the case with those that you have to deduce much from the drawing as supplied.

Quite right, they are trading as Stuart models now. The S50 is the horizontal version of the V10 and as advertised currently:

"The Stuart S50 is an ideal "first time" model engineering project".

Just wondering what standard I should expect of these kits from the various suppliers.

Regards

Steve

I built an S50 a couple of years ago (in fact, with setting up a workshop, then moving house and setting it up again it took about two years to build!). Although I'm in engineering as a profesion this was the first "model engineering" project I'd done.

The castings were of fair quality, but I hit a hard spot in the main base casting (just where I needed to tap a hole!). One phone call to Stuart and they posted me a new one, without even seeing the old one

-and it was over a year after I'd bought the kit. They were also happy to sell odd castings if anything should go wrong. As a first time model I thought it was particularly helpful that the kit contained everything down to the nuts & bolts.

Although the drawings were quite clear I found them lacking in extra information. For example the piston is dimensioned as 5/8" and the cylinder bore is dimensioned as 5/8" diameter. If made exactly to the drawing the piston would be an interference fit in the cylinder, which wouldn't work. But there was no information to tell you what a reasonable working clearance was on a steam engine of this size. There were no tolerances on any dimensions, and no indication as to whether a hole should be reamed, drilled, etc. There wera a couple of dimensions missing as well, but as you say these can be deduced from the other parts.

As a kit aimed squarely at beginners I felt there should have been a bit more information -or perhaps a "how to build the S50" guide available. But it's sat proudly on the mantle piece, and I learnt a lot about model engineering while building it.

I'm just building a Cotswold Heritage beam engine at the moment (another project delayed by moving house again) and the castings for this are some of the best quality I have seen -but they are bronze not cast iron.

I'm not sure that building from castings is the best way to go though. Castings for model engineering projects are very expensive (whoever you buy them from) and it can be quicker, easier and cheaper to work from bar stock. I think my next project will be from bar stock -there are a lot of good plans available for projects that don't involve castings.

Regards

Kevin

Stuart Turner do in fact recommend the S50 as a first engine,the V10 fo

a novice. The S50 is supplied with enough materials to build the model.

My cousin has built three,he had a very hard base casting o one,contacted Stuart Turners and they sent him a replacement FOC.

I'm building a "Minnie" and a "Stent" T&C grinder at the moment an have had all my castings from Blackgates,all first class quality an are about 30% cheaper than Reeves for similar castings and sundries fo the "Minnie".

Alla

-- Allan Waterfal

----------------------------------------------------------------------- Allan Waterfall's Profile:

I built one of those,I bought the kit at Donnington 2002,finished i mid 2003.

I think mine must have been from the first batch of kits,the flywhee casting was of poor quality,and the lost wax castings all showed sign of shrinking and were undersize.I made my flywheel from steel wit individual compnents turned on the lathe,fifteen components in all, bu a better end result than the casting would ever have been.

I also found it better to scan the drawings in and put severa components on one sheet of paper,made it easier to see what bit wen with what bit rather than going through all those individual component on separate sheets.

I've got the articles that Anthony Mount did in "Engineering i Miniature" if you need them,I could scan them in and email or send har copy to you.

Alla

-- Allan Waterfal

----------------------------------------------------------------------- Allan Waterfall's Profile:

You are the lucky one.

Blackgates supply castings that are individually heavily wrapped up in many, many layers of sellotaped newspaper and sealed up in a box - a box that hides defective castings that you don't know are defective until you get home..

Everyone is advised to exercise *EXTREME CAUTION* when dealing with Blackgates (perhaps better named, "Blackguards"?).

Do not part with any money in their direction until you have had a chance to examine every single component that they propose to sell to you.

Caveat Emptor.

How large was the resulting flywheel, i.e., was it small enough to be able to turn the outer rim on your lathe?