Estes Controller Conversion

Hello,
I'm looking for an on-line version of the conversion for the Estes controller
where you
bypass the battery compartment and add battery cables. I know how to do it, but
I'm trying
to help someone else.
I've got the hardcopy at home from the NAR guide that arrived in the mail
yesterday. That
one is close, but I'm looking to just change the bulb and bypass the battery
compartment
by adding wires that lead to battery clips.
ALSO, the person interested tells me that the Estes E controller has a glued on
back
plate, so it cannot be unscrewed and removed like the regular Electron beam
controller.
Can anyone verify this?
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
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Reply to
Fred Shecter
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but I'm trying
yesterday. That
this fits your description, Fred :)
"Modification: Estes Industries - 12V Electron Beam Launcher" by Robert Vaughan
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BTW, Estes later came out with a much more powerful launch controller
Estes Pro Command Control Launch Controller $36.09 (down from list price of $54.99) at HobbyLinc from
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=== Ultimate power for advanced model rocket launches. Can deliver in excess of 100 watts of instantaneous electrical ignition power. Igniter and plug storage. Continuity and arm lights. Arm and launch buttons. Power level indicator. LED launch indicators. Voltage selector switch. Pro Series Logo safety key. Removable spool with 30 feet of heavy gauge twin strand wire. Battery storage compartment. Launch rod cap. Charging jack. External power jack. Power from two 7.2 Volt NiCad packs (not included) or external 12 Volt battery source. ===
- iz
Reply to
Ismaeel Abdur-Rasheed
Nope (but thanks for looking). I found that on-line "Siamese" controller already.
They have the "E" controller, with the heavier launch wires but it still uses 4 penlight batteries - not good for clusters. They want to convert it to be able to fire clusters.
I suggested using a club launch system for clusters or getting the Command Controller if they have to fly on their own. Two ni-cad packs or a custom external cord leading to your car battery work great.
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
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you
trying
That
compartment
Reply to
Fred Shecter
Get The Pratt launch controler. It is complete with NiCad battery, and comes with it's own storge case. I wish I had before I built my own in a Sears tool tote (I wound up using one of his batteries anyway !)
John
leading to your
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Reply to
John Karpich
Purchase an auto jumpstart which includes battery/charger and can jump your car if you're the last one at the field or stuck in a bizzard.
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a 12v relay and use the estes on the control side, and just route the jumpstart power through the relay to the igniter clips.
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Reply to
rocket closet
I do not need a controller.
I wanted an online version of the conversion instructions for someone else who was having difficulty understanding my thorough verbal instructions. (I think they need pictures).
I have MANY controllers of my own. Regular electron beams, Command Controllers, home made for connection to car, motorcycle or lantern battery (best one able to handle the most amps), Astron, and there's always the club launch systems that run off a car battery (I built the first panel and one of the club members refreshed the wiring/soldering a few years ago and also just built a second panel for additional large pads).
The person I'm trying to help is a student. That means they do not have lots of $$$$. They already bought the wrong controller and I'm trying to help them salvage it and make it do what they really intended it to do: fire clusters. The launch leads are fine - it just needs more power and a replacement bulb. That's why I simply wanted an online version of the conversion plans for the Estes Electron Beam Controller. That usually has the battery compartment bypassed (using new wires with battery clips on the ends) and a 12V bulb replacing the 6V bulb.
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
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Reply to
Fred Shecter
Thank you for the kind words. Building a launch controller into a Sears tool tote is a great idea! Especially since the extension cord spool can be used for the cable. I had one set up like that for a long time; the wheels finally broke off. I would have made a product out of it, but the durn thing would cost too much to ship.
Since my source for nicads dried up in 2002, I've been using 3000 mAh nickel metal hydride cells in my SureFire and RTLS boxes. Twice the punch of the old 1600 mAh packs, and they seem to be just as durable. There is some amazing battery technology out there these days.
Someone asked me recently what launch system I use when I'm flying for fun, expecting some super-customized experimental gadget. The truth is I've been using the original prototype RTLS box for the past few years. It was getting pretty beaten up, and finally quit for good at the last Culpeper launch, so I built myself a new one...then sold it when a frantic rush order came in. I've set aside one of the latest batch for personal use, and it DOES have one custom accessory: I built a 12v solar panel into the lid to trickle charge the battery.
Doug Pratt
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Reply to
Doug Pratt
I use jumpstart batteries very successfully, with the electron beam controller as modified in the NAR member handbook (with light not buzzer). I have a red unit from overstock.com (Coleman? Prestone?) and another from Central Tractor that allows for endless trickle charging from Century (Centurion?). They both work, though the red one requires useage of a cigarette adapter because the cables are set up to sense a car electrical system and won't power up with my controller. I've flown up to 4 engine clusters and up to G composites with them, and over 40 flights in a day too (max so far at a CPR launch).
Tom Ha NAR #76754 Central Pennsylvania Rocketeers Section President rocketha at netscape dot net
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Reply to
Tom Ha
Isn't that the consumer's problem?
You are not expecting to sell hundreds, are you?
Reply to
Jerry Irvine
I also reccomend the Pratt Power Brick. I have had one for over two years now. It launched over a hundred rockets and still worked the next month without a recharge. It also dumps enough current to light five copperheads even when pulling in five automotive style relays.
-Chr$ NAR 79538 L1
Reply to
Chr$
but I'm trying
yesterday. That
compartment
If this is Ric Gaff's article, it's probably in a Leading Edge somewhere. You can check our archives on the NIRA web page.
Actually a decent launcher. But even at that price, you still need 2 RC car battery packs and a charger, making it nearly a $100 investment. You can do better on your own.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!
Reply to
Bob Kaplow

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