Coverings for workbench

Was Wondering what all you fellas use to cover your workbenchs with (or
not)?
I'm working up my new modeling room and have my old wooden workbench that I
made years ago. I just repainted it last night a nice semi gloss white. I
have 2 other counters on top of cabinets, a colored laminate, feels like
plastic and so far paint resistant though not scratch resistant.
Years ago I bought two largish, thin, white rectangular sheets at a train
show for putting on the workbench. They felt like some sort of plastic.
Paint stained them but you could cut on them without to much damage and
they at least protected whatever you were using to model on from
chemical/physical damage. I could even drop CA on it and if it fried before
i saw it I could get it off but bending the sheet or gentle scraping. They
survived over 10 years and except for the staining were in excellent
condition, still.
Somehow during the move, they disappeared. I am most distressed. So I need
to do something. These are not the cutting mats, I have one of those and
they weren't the same thing.
So if someone knows what I'm talking about or of you want to offer
suggestions as to what you use, let's hear it.
Reply to
Gray Guest
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Gray Guest wrote in news:Xns9F9589FFD3465Wereofftoseethewizrd@88.198.244.100:
Polypropolene cutting mats and boards!! In the Kitchen sections of most stores!
Maybe not as big as what I had, but... absurdly cheap.
Even the blood grooves might be helpful in keeping things from rolling away!
I'm off to the K and Wal - Marts. Hidey Ho!
Reply to
Gray Guest
offtoseethewizrd@88.198.244.100:
Testors sells a covering in Michaels and Hobby Lobby.
I use heavy cardboard grey pressed stiffeners as flooring for my Pace paint booth (highly recommended if you paint indoors). Get too much paint on them, they get tossed. I get them with my book covers from Brodart. And I have a ton of books.
Mats as noted, I'm going to try to use the 'put masking tape on one side' when I cut some of those way too small fiddly parts on my next model.
Got a Tamiya Kampfwagen II, probably the smallest 1/35 box ever. Can't figure out some of the Japanese, will fax it to an Aussie and see what he says about it. Will let you know.
Reply to
frank
Assuming that's a panzer II (don't of anything else called Kampfwagen), I have the English instructions scanned. I could mail them to you if that helps. Is the email address on your postings valid?
Rob
Reply to
Rob van Riel
frank wrote in news:081706ca-0217-4f66-af4d- snipped-for-privacy@h30g2000pro.googlegroups.com:
innews:Xns9F9589FFD3465Were
I found a nice gib poly cutting board and a tempered glass counter protector for about $25 all up. Looks good to me Can't wait to get the first kit started.
Know what ya mean about the spray booth. Made one before may not have to do a lot though. The room has 2 windows, one has an AC unit that will just blow uncooled air if desired and the the likely paint are is right near the other. I used to use a window fan to clear the room in my townhouse, may dio that again until I have time to make a proper paint booth.
Reply to
Gray Guest
I was going to recommend glass. I've been using a sheet now for about 10 years and I am pleased with it. Cleanup is usually accomplished with a single edge razor blade similarly to the light table I once used at work.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Reply to
Mad Modeller
I'm looking at the painting instructions. I bet its DAK with green or brown. Can't figure the photo with cotton sticking on the model (painted green? then oversprayed with DAK? ok how do the cotton balls stay on? - I know there's a dirty joke here). Rest is a piece of cake. Its all Japanese on the painting / decal insert. Thought I'd try their cotton ball thing. Nice small model though. Supposedly gives a nice ragged look to the brown or green compared to the DAK major color. I know, there are other ways to paint it, wondered WTF it was and how it would work out, probably a good 20 year old mold I'd bet. Ditto instructions.
Nice fun build instead of 900 pieces, half are tracks.
Reply to
frank
-
I run the paint booth, then have a window fan I also run after I paint, set that to exhaust, no complaints about paint at all. As opposed to, well you know how spousal units are....
Pace is a HVAC guy who figured out he could make decent money on a nice paint booth. Some advertised by some paint companies are just hugely expensive. his is nice, sturdy and solid metal.
Reply to
frank
frank wrote in news:19b4d330-6777-48cb-8fb2- snipped-for-privacy@m19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:
af4d
Yep checked his website. Maybe..
Reply to
Gray Guest
Glass good! Plastic sheet baaaaaaaad!!! Due to a brain fart I was stupid enough to by a sheet of plastic for my bench, (repurposed door on saw horses.) Looked good until the glue I use started to put divots in it...... duuhhh! Also if you want to construct your own spray booth get a bilge blower for a fan. They're 12 volt but they are spark proof and designed to suck gas and diesel fumes out of boat bilges. They move a lot of air really fast...
Reply to
rfranklin
Glass is possibly one of the best surface tops as cleanup is pretty easy with either a razor blade or utility blade. Quarter inch plate glass is much more affordable than tempered glass and can be cut to just about any exact size you need. Most any glass shop can cut the glass to whatever dimensions you want and sand the edges quite well. Plate glass should only cost a couple bucks per square foot.
Reply to
Dale Cooke
Dale Cooke wrote in news:923e5daf-6599-4b88-af7f- snipped-for-privacy@k10g2000yqn.googlegroups.com:
Mine was a counter protector for the kitchen and is likely very sturdy. $14 for 15x 20. And it is tempered. It's also pebbled on one side and smooth on the other, I think it makes it easier to see.
Reply to
Gray Guest
What do you do about the edges of the glass, to prevent yourself being scratched?
Nick P
Glass is possibly one of the best surface tops as cleanup is pretty easy with either a razor blade or utility blade. Quarter inch plate glass is much more affordable than tempered glass and can be cut to just about any exact size you need. Most any glass shop can cut the glass to whatever dimensions you want and sand the edges quite well. Plate glass should only cost a couple bucks per square foot.
Reply to
Nick P
"Nick P" wrote in news:wXNuq.14178 $ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe20.iad:
The one I bought has the edges already finished and has rubber protectors on the corners. Go to any xx-Mart and go to the kitchedn section.
Reply to
Gray Guest
snipped-for-privacy@ripnet.com wrote in news:63mib7li7dp5721oguo4rdovbr0h1uimjf@ 4ax.com:
I dunno the plastic sheets I had lasted almost a decade before I lost them. Paint, glue, solder, cuts. They looked, er, used, but the surface was still smooth with minor nicks. Super glue popped off after it dries. Plastic cement didn't seem to affect it. I had been known to dribble glue on it so as to more easily pick some up with a toothpick or other applicator. Once it dried, it to, popped off.
Reply to
Gray Guest
Different plastic? Tenax R7 and similar plastic melting products just destroy whatever it is I've got on the bench....
Reply to
rfranklin
Sounds almost like the silicone that SWMBO uses for cooking....
Regards, John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man
snipped-for-privacy@ripnet.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Haven't used Tenax in a long time so it wasn't an issue. Like I said i don't remeber the composition, it had no labels and I only saw it once at a train show from a tool guy. Hmmm, givces me an excuse i guess to go to train shows again.
Reply to
Gray Guest
instead of pam ot butter? bet that makes for interesting gas?
Reply to
someone
Nahh, the silicon is in the form of pans or pan liners. They're flexible li= ke rubber, withstand heat and nothing sticks to them so guys like me that h= ave to watch what they eat don't have to worry about that. She doesn't need= to use Pam or butter (haven't touched margarine in years anyway).
Regards, John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man

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