filler durability

Tend to use Milliput or car bumper filler (finer surface than regular body filler) for that sort of area. By the time I'd get it together to sand such a large area of CA, it would have cured so hard I doubt anything short of a diamond whetstone would touch it.

I've done that, but there's a problem with the technique - if the CA doesn't dry completely smooth, you have to sand it, and if you sand through the CA layer and hit the filler, their different hardness means that to can end up with dips in the filled surface. So if you do it, be careful about the finished sanding on it; very fine sandpaper and a very light touch.

Pat

Lately I've been using the following technique. I use the Squadron White Putty as it is finer grained than their Green Putty, and smooth it into place with a liberal wash of Testors Liquid Cement (this way it tends to "bite" into the plastic, and flaking is minimized.) Once it is dry and sanded to shape, I will then coat it with Gunze Sangyo Mr Surfacer (usually 500 but the others do as well). If you are quick it will not stipple and dries to a smooth hard shell which can still be sanded and touched up.

I just did a very large area with this in reworking a Trumpeter IS-3M turret into that for a T-10M and other than a serious fume problem the first time I applied the putty and glue coat it worked very well.

Cookie Sewell

Try a product called Icing it is sold a most auto body supply stores. We use it at masterpiece models and we have never had a problem with it cheers John Geigle