Plastic kit glue - help please

Adhesive/glue for plastic model kits.

For many years I have been figure modelling in metal, and have been building scenary in a range of materials using mainly PVA glues.

Many decades ago, as a child, I used to buiuld plastic 'airfix' kits with the supplied glue in a tube. However these models seemed to fall apart after about a year.

As a result of an impulse buy I am now the proud owner of a WWII APC kit.

What adhesive/glue is the best to use? I want the model to be long lasting as I intend to make a small diarama with figures/scenary etc and don't want it to fall to bits later. I live in the UK - but am happy to listen to anyone's experience as I can probably buy a recommended adhesive over the internet if not available here.

Thanks for any help,

Robin

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Reply to
Robin
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Thanks Greg and Nigel for your advice.

Will look at the brush on, because my memory of past plastic glues were loooooooooong strings of cement from the tube!! Also I use brush on in my current modelling capacity.

About models falling apart years ago - I can only assume that years ago I did not have any technique. Unless I had greasy fingers?

Thanks,

Robin

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Reply to
Robin

Derek,

Thanks - will look out for it.

Like the needle applicator idea because this kit has lots of small parts.

Robin

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Reply to
Robin

Might have been just my untidy ways, but I have had little success with the needle types - the needle was always blocking up and because it is so fine it is difficult to unclog.

However, if you have a more disciplined mind than me and remember to put the cap back on after every use it will be fine. I prefer the brush on stuff myself.

Cheers,

Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Heather

Lasse,

That's unusual, thanks. Good point about using too much glue, I now realise that it is a solvent and could have dissolved itself with too generous an application.

I think I shall get a tube, a bottle of cement and also try Lasse's ideas - and experiment on a cheap kit and see what fits me best.

Now I have an excuse not to do the garden this weekend - serious scientific experimentation in the workshop!

Thanks to all who replied, Robin

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Reply to
Robin

I finally found something thin enough to fit in the needle so I can unclog it (even when I religiously put the cap back on immediately after use, it clogs all the time): the metal wire that's inside the strips used to tie garbage bags. IDK if those are available in the UK, though...

Reply to
Harro de Jong

Harro,

Yes we have those plastic bag ties with thin wire.

Brilliant idea.

Thanks

Robin

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Reply to
Robin

I use either MEKPAK (Slaters Platikard Ltd 01629 583993) or MaGeR Liquid Poly from MGR Accessories BH20 7AL. Both of these ar Methyl Ethyl Ketone which you should avoid breathing but is very running, highly volatile (in the sense that it evaporates quickly) and is very efficient. Put the two parts together and run a brushful along the join and it will seep in using capilliary action. I also use it for fuselages, wings etc. by doing some tacking and then run around the edge. If you don't touch the wet bits, it will evaporate quickly and not leave any marks.

For bits where I have a little but more time I use Humbrol Precison Poly.

MEK and Humbrol should be available from any decent model shop - especially if they sell plastic card for modelling. If not Hannants as ever.

Regards

David David Pennington snipped-for-privacy@bbbweb.com

Reply to
David Pennington

Well, lots of useful info posted already. I use a mixture of tube (good old Humbrol Poly Cement), liquid (Humbrol Liquid Poly) and needle (Revell Contacta), depending on what the surface to be bonded is like. For a good grip, especially for repairs (models+kids+cat), the tube is great. For gaps/thin surfaces, needle. For large flat areas (rudders, wings), liquid.

I use these 3 because I've got tons - I frequently buy model packs cheap in places like Woolies, and get glue with each one.

The Ethyl Acetate looks interesting - science stuff here:

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I'll have a chat with my local pharmacy - I've got some 5ml eyedropper botles which sound ideal.

CA glue (SuperGlue/cyanoacrylate) is alos frequently used, but not by me (see repairs above), and is apparently useful for gap filling as well as bonding.

and , there's also an FAQ here, well worth reading.

Damian

Reply to
Damian

. For large flat

Having said that, I've also noticed from personal experience, but not followed up, that thinned Enamel paint (Humbrol in my case) can loosen/debond joints made with liquid poly, if applied to excess (e.g as a gap-filler, lazy swine that I am :-) ) . None of the other two seem to suffer from this.

There is no substitute for time, effort and elbow grease. Damian

Reply to
Damian

David,

Thanks for those choices and for the contact numbers. Like the differences between those two adhesives. Looks like I'm going to be busy trying out to see which suits me best.

Cheers, Robin

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Reply to
Robin

Thanks Damian.

I'm going to get some woolies kits and test out the ideas.

Robin

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Reply to
Robin

You can also go to any older hardware store and get a "Pricker" as used to clean the jet on a kerosine stove. They have a tin handle and a 1/2 inch piece of hard thin wire to poke with. These prickers are great for getting into tiny holes.

Hope this helps, Peter

Reply to
Bushy

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