Someone told me, that the green putty is after it dries
DK.
"T. Forward" pí¹e v diskusním pøíspìvku news:APYVb.7977$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.socal.rr.com...
Here's what may be two simple questions. First, aside from the color, which
> I guess is to aid visibility, is there a difference between Squadron's white
> and green putties, like working time or workability? Second, I read here a
> lot about Miliput and I read that there are several grades; which is the
> grade used most often for scale modeling? Thanks.
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> TF
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as i understand it, the white version of squadron green stuff is a finer grade filler. i have never used it though. i find with green stuff its best not to use it to fill holes more than about 3 mm deep as if the hole is any deeper it seems like it takes days to fully harden.
I've used both. Squadron green putty is paste-like with the consistency of peanut butter. I recently tried the Squadron white putty and noticed that it was considerably thinner, more like toothpaste. I tried kneading the tube to see if it got thicker and it didn't. Both puttys shrink and can soften and deform polystyrene. They both don't seem to sand to a really smooth finish either. I've had the same problems with Tamiya putty too.
I recently gave up on both and tried something completely different. I was in a NAPA auto parts store and noticed Micro Lite Filler, a polyester auto body putty. A guy in my IPMS chapter was raving about a polyester auto putty he was using but it cost $25/can. This stuff at NAPA (their own brand) looked like the same stuff only it was $5.99/can. The putty itself seems really course and has the consistency of "wet" peanut butter and you mix it with a hardener that comes in a small tube (30:1 mixture ratio putty/hardener). I tried this on an Aifix SPAD VII (you can imagine the wonderful opportunities for filling gaps that this model presented) and it worked great! This Micro Lite filler adhered really well, dried really fast (totally hard in less than 15 minutes), sanded very smooth, did not shrink at all, and was really inexpensive compared to the competition and the amount of product you get. I highly recommend this stuff!
Hallo, I can only help with your second question. There are 3 basic milliput flavours, terracotta for restoring pottery, superfine (white) and standard (blue). My opinion is to use milliput only to restore large parts or create your own new parts. I always had problem with milliput not adhering where needed, it often fell off the part I was puttying.
If you manage using it as a filler, you will love its ease of use, especially the fact you can clean with water any excess while it cures.
The terracotta variant is/was also sold in a yellow-grey colour. Don't let the pottery implication put you off. I think they only changed the colour, and other than that it is still the modelling material they started out with. I must admit to having some bad experiences with the finer grades, but this may have been due to the fact that I didn't get the components mixed properly.
This can indeed be interesting. However, with the solvent based putties I occasionally end up with bit of it sticking where they're not wanted, and being almost impossible to remove without damage. In addition to not sticking where they are needed.
There was a thread about fillers a few weeks back, where I detailed how I use milliput as a filler. It should still be out there, but let me know if it proves elusive.
My fault, I have spoken for a product (terracotta) I never used.
Probably my troubles had to deal with a not perfectcly mixed putty, maybe the problem was the surface. I had better result with rough/grainy surfaces than with smooth ones. I agree with standard solvent based putty, they can be a mess to use but I feel safer with them (I mean: I know they stick and stay there).
I probably read it, was that where someone asked a hint on puttying without sanding?
"Riccardo C." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@esteco.it:
I have Milliput. I used it once so far. The first batch I mixed wrong and it never hardened. The second batch I got right and used it to build up a not round enough belly. I built up the area first with plastic sheet to a rough contour then filled it from there. I liked it.
I would like to try it for some seams, on some cheaper models. I like the idea of being able to wipe it down and remove excess as it dries.
My question is: Is it possible to mix a batch and put it in an air/water tight container and keep it even for a short period of time? Mixing it was the PITA for me. Making a batch and taking small amounts as needed would be more convenient.
Milliput is an epoxy putty, and the hardening process is a chemical reaction that begins as soon as the components are mixed. It will set underwater, and it will certainly set inside a jar.
You have to mix it well and apply it while it's sticky (in the first 30 minutes or so after mixing) Left longer it gets rubbery, and after about an hour can be carved. In a few hours it goes quite hard, and should be left overnight to finish setting.
For me, its advantages are that it doesn't shrink, it doesn't attack the base polystyrene and it can be shaped and smoothed with wet tools, or sculpted later in the setting process. Hard to beat, really.
I just did some searching to find out if "green stuff" was still around. It is, and a good entry point for info on it is
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Green stuff is similar to milliput, but finer grained, and apparently stickier (never used it myself, as I never found a local supplier and found milliput sufficient for my needs). If that is correct, it should solve the adhesion issues. It is a bit more expensive though.
Not exactly the same Rob. Milliput is a two part epoxy as you know and Green Stuff is a solvent base filler. Green Stuff is similar to auto spot fillers (if not the same) such as 3M Acryl Blue, Bondo Spot Putty and some of the other red, green, white, etc putties.
Green Stuff will attack styrene to some extent because of the solvents. Too much and it will really do a job on styrene.
Each has it's own place in the modeling world. I prefer Milliput for it's strength and workability with water. I find Green Stuff easier to feather, harder to seal, more wasteful and messy in the long run. The solvent putties will also "key" to styrene better than Milliput.
I buy 3M Blue in a big tube at auto parts stores. It is finer grained than Green Stuff and my current tube is about 8 years old, still workable and shows no signs of drying up. I have had Green Stuff go bad in the tube.
I buy Milliput at the hobby shops, via mail and at ceramics shops.
Sometime A & B Plumber's Putty works just as well as Milliput, but the grain is more pronounced. and it doesn't seem to work quite as nicely. also A & B Putty seems a bit heavier than Milliput.
All I have to do now is get something far enough along to use someone's putty/filler.
You're thinking of Squadron Green Putty. He's talking about Kneadatite epoxy putty, "commonly known as 'Green Stuff'". Its two parts are colored yellow and blue, which of course combine to make green.
I must admit to some familiarity with this mistake. First time I heard people talking about Squadron Green Putty (which is practically unknown in these parts), I thought they were talking about Green Stuff. I was somewhat disappointed to learn it was really just another solvent based filler (although apparently a good one).
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