Putting it on in tiny pieces is part of the trick - the other is to
remove it immediately...don't leave it on even overnight. Paint, let
mostly dry, remove.
It can become near permanent otherwise...but because of that, I've used
it to make raised panels on relatively flat surfaces on occasion, and
I'm thinking about doing the same for doing interior canopy framing on
my next large scale build.
If you must use "magic mending tape" for masking, stick it on your forehead
first before putting it on the model. The little bit of skin oil will
minimize the stickiness the minimize the residue problem. Also, as Rufus
says, remove before the paint is dry and by all means, don't let it stay
over night. Voice of experience...
What I do instead of using tape is to s-l-o-w-l-y and c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y
scribe/cut around the clear parts of the canopy after the canopy is
installed/puttied/faired/sanded in and polished with cheap paper towel. I
use a new #11 blade. Then brush "paint" 2 or 3 coats of liquid mask on the
clear areas. This will make nice sharp lines and corners since the
scribe/cut lines. Let dry. Spray your intended color scheme and don't
worry how long the masking stays on. When all
spraying/painting/decoration/decaling over-spraying is complete, gently go
over the canopy frame edges again with a new #11 blade and then use a
toothpick to remove the masking. Once all traces of paint/stuff are removed
from the clear canopy portions, apply Future to the now clear/cleaned canopy
Works for me....
We were talking about two different things here. I didn't
use scotch tape for masking. I used painted scotch tape
for the actual framing. It doesn't matter about residue
because it doesn't get removed.
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