Gorilla Glue - Anyone use it?

I'm a woodworker guy and not a modeler. I just lurk here for tips :)

Its a very strong glue for woodworking but by its nature it will foam up as it dries. On small pieces like on a model that means that it will literally push them apart if they are not well clamped together. Plus you get the foamy residue squeezing out at the joint.

These aren't major problems when building a life-size wood project but I suspect would be totally unacceptable in modelling.

-Bill

I have used the elmers equivalent a urethane braced glue and I think it very much I used it on wood and it expands more than I expected

David

My wife used on some glass and metal for an outdoor project. After a few months it all fell apart. Scott The SnJ Guy

aparently its not a good glue for hard smooth non porous items then

Damn interloper. ;-p

hey al, is that new email valid or a spam trap?

Sh*t! :(

My settings got changed when I upgraded to Agent 3.0. Damn! :(

Should be fixed now...

In article , Al Superczynski > wrote: backtonormal

yep, wanted to be carefull.

How do you hold the gorilla in place until the glue dries?

snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net wrote in news:1123621777.787587.73550 @g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I read some time ago, on this group I think, that it's very good for large resin pieces. "Large" could mean almost anything except "Small" but I think the subject model was StarCraft's 1/1000 Romulan Bird of Prey.

TForward

The hard part is getting the glue *out* of the gorilla. Special training's required for that.

PRose

Save the Gorilla! Boycott Gorilla Glue!

Yes and no. For wood, obviously. Although it has terrific tensile strength, the shear strength sucks. That is, if you glue two pieces together, they will be very difficult to pull apart, however, they will not be too difficult to twist apart. I've used it to make up molds on which to build wooden boat models. Also used it where conventional wood glues (e.g., Tightbond) are normally used. It is superior to Tightbond for such applications. The foaming out of the joints that people mentioned is easier to clean off than dried tightbond, even if it does look messier. One of the main advantages is that it is gap-filling -- but don't push your luck on that score. All in all, I can't see any use for it on a model itself. CA is far superior in that respect.

Boris

Thank you for *that* mental image.

Blech.

GG works fine on stuff that's not smooth and non-porous. It's also OK on smooth and non-porous stuff, if it's not some sort of mechanical item repair.

Even works on plastic bits, but it's better to rough them up a little before the gluing.

E.P.