Seam / Gap filling

I like Tamiya putty. As good as the Squadron stuff used to be...if not better.

Salute ! Here's a little trick. I don't know whether it's been discussed before here, but here goes anyway : tape off the model as close to the seams as possible. Fill up with putty or even better : Bison woodglue ( it needs a few applications in that case, but it sands away real nice nicely. ). Let it harden. Go buy yourself nailpolishremover, but make sure it is a variety without aceton in it !!!!! Pull away the tape. Wash away the putty with the polishremover. Easy as singing out of key.

Trikke "Rufus" schreef >> I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some

I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds promising. Cures in 1 minute in the Sun, or 2 minutes under fluorescent light.

that little bit took me around 30 years to figure out. so damn simple but it eluded my feeble mind for decades..

Craig

Yup, I am using the Tamiya putty more and more and in this way. It and Milliput are soooo nice ti use.

Still, with CA, (superglue) the *trick* is.... Put it on, and apply a dab on some spare useless material. (I use piece of tape) Every 60 seconds or so, check the sample piece and see how hard it is. It will within minutes reach a point where it is easily sandable, and workable.. Now go sand the model parts, and you will be surprised at how easy it is. You get a fine and well feathered edge this way. In the space of less than an hour, you can get four or five sanded coats down if you have to. Worse comes to worse, needle files work on hardened superglue...

Now for for very small surface blemishes, the Tamiya polyester putty is the better way to go. The CA can, eventually crack, or pop off the surface under a minor (I know whats that) loading. The putty becomes part of the plastic and takes time and stress well. (IMHO)

AM

BTW, just to give credit where credit is due here...

I got this trick off someone here on r.m.s back in

:)

AM

Sounds like you are waiting too long to sand. If you use CA glue and accelerator, you can sand it within few minutes of it setting. That way it is still just as soft (or softer) than styrene or resin. If you wait several hours or days, CA cures harder than styrene.

Other than that, CA is valid to use for gap filling. Personally, I don't like (or use) any putties.

Peteski

Tamiya putty works the same and cleans off with nail polish remover and a cotton tip, even after weeks of being applied .Negates hours of sanding and saves the details close by.

Tamiya basic putty and Mr. Surfacer both work like that but faster using Mr. Color thinner.