Filling jet canopy seam how?

I am still in the search for a good technique in order to fill gaps
between my canopies and jet fuselage.
I was using squadron putty but wasn't happy with the results around the
canopy, I would just make a mess.
I was recently told to use Elmer white glue, so I did and after a small
application in the seam around my masked canopy and fuselage it looked
good but the seam was still there, so I put more glue and this
technique showed its limit as if you put too much it doesn't sand at
Thank god it removes easily, I took it all off with twizers. So I am
back to square one on my Heller 1/72 Mirage 2000 C.
I have been searching the web today for some other techniques and read
about using Mr Surfacer which I am pretty sure I have seen at Hobbytown
USA here in Atlanta which is my closest hobby store.
Has anyone used it for that purpose of filling canopies seams as it is
really a primer ?
It comes in a spray can or regular bottle in 500, 1000 and 1200. I
think 500 is coarser and better for seams.
Do you let it dry then sand it? Does it dry clear ?
Anything will help, thanks in advance
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Use Milliput.
Mix up a small batch and add a small amount of water. Make sure that the clear sections of the canopy are masked and then fill the seams. As soon as you have filled them, get a Babybud ( Q-tip ) and make sure that the end is soaked in water. Use the end in a sanding motion to "sand" the excess Milliput from the seam. This should leave the Milliput flush with the external surface. Leave the Milliput to dry. It will then shrink slightly and leave a slightly sunken panel line around the canopy. Once the Milliput is dry, finish off with a gentle sanding with a fine grade of wet-and-dry to ensure that there is no excess Milliput.
It works for me. Hope this helps.
Reply to
Enzo Matrix
I use plain old white glue, Elmer's or Lepages for example. It won't craze the plastic and easily cleans up with a bit of water. It can be coaxed into place when it's wet and the excess cleaned up by a swipe of a moist Q-tip. All in all, it's nearly as useful a modelling compound as Future although you shouldn't put it on your floors.
Reply to
Jessie C
I like Tamiya putty - but ht e real trick with sanding the putty is to mask the canopy as you would for painting before you start sanding. Tamiya putty is very fine grained, set quickly, and sands easily.
Mask the canopy to protect the clear portion of it while sanding - then go ahead and sand the fuselage and frame at the join; but still take care not to sand through the mask.
I always remove the tape after sanding and re-mask pefore I paint. That way I get to see if I'm satisfied with the sanding job, and I'm confident the mask is good for paint.
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I would agree with the masking and using something like A & B or Milliput with water to smooth it out.
But the all time best product of that type is Apoxie Sculpt. Looks much like the others and works exactly the same way, knead two equal sized amounts together until uniform color, then apply like clay, then feather out the material with water.
The big advantage is while A &B and Milliput tend to get really rock hard when dry, Apoxie Sculpt has the hardness and consistency of the surrounding plastic. And it scribes just like styrene. Great stuff!!
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One of their little card mounted blister packs provides enough material for the rest of your life and their web based ordering service is great.
Reply to
Norm Filer
Tamiya putty can be wet sanded with nail polish remover ,just wet a cotton bud in the nail polish remover and gently wipe it across the putty to smooth it . You won't lose any detail this way . Even after the putty has dried it works .
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But be careful, though...most nail polish removers are laquer based, and if that creeps under your tape job...
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