SR-71 Blackbird


I'm not ready to start building my SR-71 Blackbird as yet, but I've got a
question. On it's decal sheet are some rather long red lines that go on
the top of the fuesologue(sp). How does one go about laying those down
WITHOUT screwing 'em up? Or would it just be easier to take a very fine
sharp paintbrush and paint 'em on by hand? Then cut off the "no step"
portions and apply them after the paint is dry.
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
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Cut them into managable sections and lay them down individually.
Reply to
Jeff C
Something I got to thinking about doing while I was (of all things) taking a shower this morning. Taking the decal sheet and Xeroxing it. Then cutting out all of the red "pin striping" and using rubber cement or some other form of "masking" agent and "painting" over them, then pulling them up leaving the rubber cement mask behind and air brushing them on in red paint. Then again using a SHARP blade cutting the "no step" portions off and applying them after the paint has dried.
Also I was wondering who besides
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makes aftermarket parts for the SR-71 Blackbird. Such as the cockpit/seats/pilot/Systems Operator, exhaust nozzle/tertiary door ring/engine hub.
Does anyone know if the two tail numbers were actual working aircraft, or are they just a couple of numbers that Monogram made up???
Using Googles image search I've found a couple of SR-71s with the NASA markings on them. An 849 IF I'm not mistaken and an 831. The NASA planes DON'T have all the USAF markings, just a white band on the tail that says NASA, and an ID number.
Sadly there aren't enough numbers to make up different numbers on the sheet that came with the kit, so a sheet of (at least) numbers in the right scale (1/72) and font would be needed to do different tail numbers. Does anyone know IF anyone makes an aftermarket decal sheet that would have the NASA tail band on it?
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
AFAIK, those are actual numbers. The rub is, did they stay on any one aircraft? I've read that numbers on aircraft at Beale were changed to confuse observers as to numbers of aircraft assigned to the base plus making it harder to tell when one was off 'at work'.
Are you needing 'NASA' bands? I may have some leftovers here but they'd be from a Microscale sheet.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
Reply to
Mad Modeller
Use a drop or two of hand dishwashing detergent in your decal water and keep the surface to be decaled wet so that you can adjust the decal easily. Slide just a little of one end off the paper, postion it, and pull the rest of the paper out from under it while holing the decal in place with a damp brush. Repostion as necessary before blotting it down, and apply solvent after an hour or so if required.
Reply to
Al Superczynski
"Digital_Cowboy" wrote in message
Fine Scale Modeler had an article on the NASA fonts and insignia a few years ago - someone local to you should have a copy you can borrow. Have a look at the FSM website to pinpoint the exact issue, then ask around. If you get really stuck, let me know off-group and I'll have a dig through my mag stash. In my book 'Lockheed Blackbirds' by Thornborough and Davies, there's a good colour pic of 06937 dated 1979 (a/c in storage) with the yellow NASA band on the tail. the serial above it and US Air Force lettering and stars and bars on the fuse.
As for the changing of serials on Habus, I don't know. U-2 serials were definately swapped around to confuse 'the enemy', so it's possible that -71s were too.
RobG
Reply to
Rob Grinberg
NASA had several SR-71s loaned to it over the years, plus the last two YF-12s until they were retired. They were also repainted many times because the markings burn off after several hours of Mach 3+ flight.
They often had different numbers painted on either side of the aircraft. Most markings only lasted for half a flight : )
Reply to
Jeff C
the mother of all blackbird sites, should answer any questions
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Reply to
spiff
And "Rob Grinberg" opened up and revealed to the world news:423bd84b snipped-for-privacy@news.chariot.net.au:
Rob,
Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks to Aprils issue I have already found a local modeler who has EVERY FSM. He's already making me a copy of the article on the Futura. AND get this, his family and my family already knew each other. . . Turns out his Uncle was at one time Mayor of Poughkeepsie. . .
I'll do the search on FSM first so that I can narrow down his search.
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And Jeff C opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Jeff,
Yep, found that out. The more research I've done into how the SR-71 ACTUALLY looked the more I find out about it and ISN'T that what the hobby is all about learning something about what inspired the kits that we build??? And the more I find wrong with the plastic.
Such as they have the airborne refueling port round, when in ALL of the pictures I've seen it's square or rectangle in shape. . . I guess I can drill it out, square it up, and build a little box under it with a slanted "floor."
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And Al Superczynski opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Al,
Thanks for the tip. I've got both bottles of Testor's decal solution. Or is there a better forumula to be used? Then after everything is set give it a coat of clear finsh to further seal everything. . .
I do have one question and I think the answer is going to be yes, esp. IF I use the Eduard brass PE parts. Even though it is made out of black plastic I *SHOULD* paint it before decaling, right?
And again does anyone know IF there are any resin parts for the 1/72 scale model or aftermarket decals?
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And "spiff" opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:
Spiff,
That site is already in my favorites.
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And "spiff" opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
Spiff,
That's one of the pages that I've been d/ling my images from. When I get ready to start working on my SR-71, I plan on finding as many of the same craft from the same year, and printing them out. "Cropping" down to the details that are of interest.
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
the scale finish is flat rather than gloss
Reply to
spiff
And "spiff" opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And "Rob Grinberg" opened up and revealed to the world news:423bd84b snipped-for-privacy@news.chariot.net.au:
Rob,
Below you'll find the results I got when I did a search just on NASA:
Search results for nasa 1 - 5 of 5 North American F-107A Ultra Sabre by Paul Boyer FineScale Modeler May 2003 NASA Super Guppy by Les Dorr Frederick, Maryland FineScale Modeler December 2002 NASA's Enterprise FineScale Modeler January 2002 International Color And Camouflage by Les Dorr Jr. FineScale Modeler April 1996 XB-70A Valkyrie by Randal Dieck FineScale Modeler March 1996
And in trying to do a search on "NASA font" I get no "hits." If the article you're talking about is in one of the "hits" above, by what they give I can't tell it.
I did a search on SR-71, and I get four "hits:"
Search results for sr-71 1 - 4 of 4 SR-71: Cold War marvel FineScale Modeler October 2004 Oregon Historical Modelers Society show Kitbash an early Blackbird by Paul Boyer FineScale Modeler December 2003 XB-70A Valkyrie by Randal Dieck FineScale Modeler March 1996
I have to admit that I was a little surprised that I had one mag with an article on the SR-71, that's the Oct. '04 issue.
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
And "Digital_Cowboy" opened up and revealed to the world news:Xns961E7D43E5954nobodynobodycom@24.168.128.86:
After looking closer at some of the pictures that I have d/led. I've found I was in error about what I thought was the inflight refueling port. But I think that it might either be in the wrong place or at the wrong angle. . .
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
Whichever kit you have, you will need to use filler (I've built most of them, and none fit better than average), so yes, painting is a must. Have you considered using gloss black as a base for the decals?
I don't know of any resin parts in 1/72. If you leave the canopies down (which I thing looks better) you can get away with using nothing but the kit bits.
Reply to
Jeff C
forumula to be used?
They're probably adequate but not all decals react the same way to any given product. I keep various brands of solvent on hand for just that reason. Some don't react to *any* solvent at all - then it's time to resort to a hot rag or a hair blow dryer.
everything. . .
Yeah, but be sure to wash off any residual setting solution, solvent, or decal adhesive first. I also recommend using distilled water for decals to avoid possible contamination from any chemicals or other nasties that might be in your tap water.
Definitely. And don't use straight black - that makes a model look toylike. Use a very dark gray or tone down your black with a few drops of white.
No resin AFAIK. Microscale/Superscale did an SR-71 sheet but it's long been out-of-print.
Reply to
Al Superczynski

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