Victory's aft banister - need some advice

I need some advice on how to paint the aft banisters on the Victory.
The black base coat has been put on, I am attempting to paint the
Sunflower Yellow onto the banisters.
What I have tried so far: - Fine paint blush 10/0 - Masking the area off - left no room for a 10/0 brush to protrude - Using a semi dried brush to wipe over the banisters
The result has been something that experiences bleed through, or not enough paint in bing imparted onto the surface.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Wayne." wrote:

Wayne, Here are three sites that you can go for references. The first one, guzmanshipmodels belongs to a friend of mine that builds wood ships, he can also give you some tips. The other two have nice shots that you can use as reference for the banisters and the rest of the ship.
Good luck,
Ray ==http://guzmanshipmodels.com / http://www.hms-victory.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1 http://www.stvincent.ac.uk/Heritage/1797/Victory / =
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman wrote:

Sorry for the delay in replying.
I am working from the Anatomy of the Ship series book from the victory, but what I was hoping was for some insight into how to paint the banisters as I have not had much luck in finding a way of masking the surface that does not allow bleeding.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What scale? I generally use brush work for these kind of details- one can get some very fine brushes. You do NOT want the paint too thin. A fairly dry brush also helps.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have had some luck and or success with this: spray the whole piece yellow using a syringe, flow thinned black paint into the hollow background areas touch up the black with a fine buush as needed
Mike the modelhound in Bel;lingham, WA

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The Modelhound wrote:

Dr. PH Martin's highly pigmented india ink would work for that, just mist some Polly Scale clear over it after it dries.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The Modelhound wrote:

Like a fountain pen. I was wondering how to go about it in a fast and easy manor.
Just have to convince the pharmacy that I am not a druggie.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Wayne." wrote:

Wayne, In lieu of a fountain pen or hypodermic needles, go to your local art shop and buy some Speedball (trademark) pen quills and some matt India ink. The quills should cost about $4 to $5 for a set of maybe 10 quills and the quill holder should be around $1.99 for a plastic one or around $5.00 for a wood one. Personally, I prefer the wood holder.
Ray Austin, TX =
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The main problem is that in painting yellow over a black base coat, a thick coat of yellow has to used to cover the black. It's nearly impossible to get the yellow paint both thick and neat.
Is this the Heller Victory? If so, this part is molded in a tan color. You might want to carefully scrape off the black paint from the raised areas, and then highlight them in yellow.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Alexander Arnakis wrote:

I have used a wooden toothpick on the name plate, and the balusters and it has worked.
What I did originally, was to paint the area with the yellow, then over that the black and before it had fully dried, scrapped it away with the toothpick and mostly it worked very well leaving the yellow clearly visible.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.