I've been away from model railroading for years. This year I bought a
new house with a wonderful basement room perfect for a large layout.
My 11-year old boy and I are eager to get started but aren't sure
which code 83 system to use. What are my options, and what are the
pros and cons of the various brands currently available? Websites
would also be helpful. Thanks!
I've always considered the ME track to be the best available. It is a bit
harder to work with as it is stiff but a bit of working on the curves will
make them flow right.
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works evevery time it is tried!
If price is not a big concern, consider Railway Engineering
(http://www.railwayeng.com ) turnouts. They can be purchased DCC ready as
well as with wooden ties already attached. And they will make ANYTHING you
can draw; curves, straights, non-standard, etc. It is the next best thing to
hand laid, and instead of doing the labor, you pay for it.
If you want ready made turnouts and don't mind the European look, check out
Pilz Elite turnouts. I'm using them now with their flex track and they work
great. I measured them and made templates for them in Empire Express to
design my layout, and the result were right on. See
http://www.trainconnection.com or http://www.euro-trains.com for purchase
and pricing. To use these with DCC, I removed the two jumpers, put a jumper
between the stock and point rails, and wired the frog rails to be switched
by my Tortoise motors. In addition, I made a cut two ties prior to the frog
(in the closure rails) to prevent the back of metal wheels (especially steam
locos) from touching both rail simultaneously. That leaves a dead spot of
less than one inch. If you left the jumpers I removed in place, then this
cut could be made even further away and there would be no dead spot. ( I
installed them then discovered the "back of wheel" problem)
I find that ME and Walther's / Shinohara turnouts are troublesome with DCC,
though others don't mind the conversion. Atlas has sloppy points, even with
"Superswitches" which otherwise look very good, so I ruled them out.
I have no opinion on Peco, but some love 'em (you'll likely hear from them
here), but they have no code 83.
in article email@example.com, Bob May at
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote on 11/18/03 11:57 AM:
www.atlasrr.com is the home of Atlas track. I would strongly suggest
starting with their track. Avoid their snap switches but use their
custom line switches.
It is easy to use and works well. Micro engineering is very hard to
work with and if you are new, avoid it I think. Walthers makes good
switches but their height is different than Atlas's a small bit.
In short, start with Atlas. After a while you can experiment. Have
email@example.com (Bill Bryant) wrote in message
I'd use HO PECO if I didn't mind the fact that the turnouts don't look right
for US standard gauge track. They function perfectly but only come in 100
and 75. For HO I use code 83 Walthers. The Walthers turnouts look very nice
and are reasonably priced. If you use either DC or DCC they need slight
modification to be completely reliable. The modification is not difficult
and well worth the effort. The same goes for Shinohara. ME's probably need a
little work too but really look good. I noticed that Ed mentioned Railway
Engineering. I have not tried their products but have heard nothing but good
things about their turnouts. All the Atlas turnouts I've tried were
introduced to the trash can in short order. Many people have had success
with the Atlas stuff so don't rule them out on my experience. Lord knows
what they get to run through those things.... probably diesels or something
else horrible. :) If you plan to run steam locomotives consider using
turnouts like Walthers or similar turnouts from other manufacturers that
offer code 83 and modify them. Even with diesel locomotives this is the best
way to go to be stall proof when running real slow through a turnout. You
can see diagrams on how to modify a variety of turnouts at
www.wiringfordcc.com . Even if your not doing DCC these mods work. One other
note regardless of who's track products you decide on get an NMRA gauge and
make sure everything is in gauge. For the most part things will be in gauge
or close enough that it won't matter, but its still good to check and catch
the occasional problem before it creates one. Remember that the forces of
nature insure that the one turnout that's out of whack will get installed at
the most difficult to reach spot on the layout. Bruce
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.