DCC/Booster requirements and wiring for a G-Scale layout

Hi Guys,
I'm finally getting around to building my train layout inside my house. I've been building all of the supports and wooden track to
suspend the system from the ceiling and the walls and I am finally at the part where I need to look into how I am going to power the system.
I want to use DCC or some variant so I can run two engines on the layout at the same time and have full control over them. My layout is somewhere around 175 feet of track and I'm going to be running 2 of the rogers 2-4-2 aristocraft engines on it. I was hoping I could get a couple answers here about the size of a booster I need and can I get away with wiring all of the track off of one booster? (How many feeders do I need? I was planning something like one every 30 feet).
From what I have read I think I could get by with one 5 amp booster, but I'm not sure. (Do I really need 10 amps ?)
I don't plan to run any accessories off of the track other than the train and a couple of switches. All of the buildings/lights and such will be on their own power supply.
Thanks for the help,
Scott
http://www.rohnerusa.com/public/scott/train /
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:6b6d745f-49b7-4270-9fa1-8e1d51d7d6c7@ 35g2000pry.googlegroups.com:

That's way too few. A good rule of thumb is that every piece of track should be soldered to something, whether a feeder or another piece of track. If you're using Aristocraft track joiners or something similar, I'd definitely want a lot of drops.
It's always easier to go overkill on the drops before the track is installed and ballasted.

A more powerful booster is usually cheaper than a second less powerful booster. You might have to buy a power supply, so you might as well go with a more powerful one. Circuit breakers or light bulbs will protect your train from shorts.

Take a look at the website Wiring For DCC: http://www.wiringfordcc.com
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Power level of the booster is determined by the amount of locos you are going to run with it. Even caveman era motor only drew about 0.7Amps of current so there isn't much of a problem with two of anything on any of hte boosters. The big thing is to make sure that the track is well fed with the power. You should be able to trace back every foot of rail to a soldered connection to the rail and the only exception to soldering is to have crimp lug terminals on strips for connections. Also try not to have too many of those as any joint is a resistence point which will drop the voltage. Also, long lengths of rail will also cause voltage drops.
-- Bob May
rmay at nethere.com http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll head on over to that DCC page. It sounds like I should solder my track together as well. I am using the aristocraft joiners with the screws to keep the track together, but it sounds like I need to beef up the connections.
-Scott

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
A 5 amp booster should work for you, your engines will probably draw mor than .7 amps because of sound smoke and G gauge. I would recomend the Aristocraft clamps rather than the joiners. They are more positive and reliable. You can drop a feeder from any of them without soldering.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

snip
snip
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The page in question shows how to add bonding wires across the joints - just like the real railroads do (they use them for signal circuits.)
HTH
--
Wolf Kirchmeir

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes:

I doubt you need to do that - just run a big fat wire alongside or under the track and occasionally (say every 6 feet or so) run a smaller wire to the track and solder that. Bear in mind though that your G-scale engines pull more power than HO, so don't use HO wiring standards! Use something like 16 gauge for track feeders and 14 gauge for the buss lines. If you want to go a little overboard, use 14 and 12. I've heard that many G scale builders use the same wire that low-voltage patio lighting uses.
Personally I hate soldering track connections - it makes maintenance a hassle and it won't look nice with the brass-colored track.
As for boosters - digitrax makes high-current decoders and an 8 amp booster for G scale. Those engines pull a lot of power, and you've got a lot of distance to electrify, so I'd go with the higher capacity. A normal 5 amps probably isn't enough for two engines to work well. *
--
* PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
like corkscrews.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Yup! You need to beef up the ELECTRICAL portion of the connection. Soldered jumpers across each rail joint. NOT soldering the joiners.
'Thermal expansion/ contraction' flexes the 'rail/ joiner/ solder' and over time will/can break the connection [this will be very hard to spot physically]. A wire jumper will allow for 'flexing' of the rail joint while maintaining the electrical connection. Another way of accomplishing the desired end result [some ways a better overall solution], is to run 12ga or 10ga feeder buss wires under the track, and provide EACH piece of 'running rail' with it's own 'drop wire'.
Chuck D.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.