Actually, I've heard that the pilot doors that came with the P2K PA-1's
would fit the hole in the DL109 pilot. I don't know how true that is, but
that's what I heard.
Paul A. Cutler III
Weather Or No Go New Haven
Put a backing plate of .030 plastic or .010 brass shim stock on the backside of
pilot and fill the hole with JB Weld. Let it cure for 48 hours, then sand it
Re-cut a new opening to the proper dimensions and paint.
You will have a very hard time out doing that JB Weld, especially if you use a
or tin backing and drill out lots of little holes in it for the putty to ooze
through. It will be hard as a rock on viagra and strong as a piece of solid
neither of which qualities can be attributed to Squadron putty.
Edgar Buchannan Jr.
I disagree, almost TOTALLY!
I've' sculpted' many things from 'Squadron Green Putty', some larger
than many HO locomotives (like a 1/35 scale M-103 tank turret), and I've
NEVER had a CONTINUED shrinkage problem. The turret in particular must
have 3/4" thick SGP in lots of places. I made it about 15 years ago, and
it's still the same shape as it was when I made it, and NO cracks. It's
rock hard too.
The stuff DOES shrink, it's 'air-dry' by evaporation, but once it's
dried, it's stable. The trick is to NEVER put it on more than about 1/8
inch thick, and wait until it's THOROUGHLY dry (24 hours **AT LEAST**)
before putting on another layer. This makes it SLOW to use for thick
I suggest one of the two part chemical-cure epoxy or polyester body
putties for thick applications. These cure all the way through in one
application regardless of thickness.
Brian Paul Ehni wrote:
On 2/27/04 10:47 AM, in article firstname.lastname@example.org, "Daniel A.
Fair enough. IN MY EXPERIENCE, I used SGP to fill an area approximately 3/4"
x 1/2" x 1/16" (a passenger car window); after letting it sit three weeks to
dry, I sanded it down, and painted the area. Two week later, I had a
depression. Refilled and resanded. Same problem. Quite using SGP.
Your mileage may vary, but I refuse to use SGP ever again.
That'd work...personally I'd be inclined to put the backing plate on and
take a piece of styrene that's about as thick as the hole, trim it till
it's just a bit oversized, wet its edges and the hole's edges with
styrene cement, and press it in. Let it cure 48 hours, then trim off
the smooge that oozed up around the edges. No putty should be needed if
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