I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board to foam board though this is NOT recommended on the Liquid Nails cartridge directions. What is your experience? Thanks for your help. AW
- posted
19 years ago
I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board to foam board though this is NOT recommended on the Liquid Nails cartridge directions. What is your experience? Thanks for your help. AW
There are two varieties of Liquid Nails available here in Australia, one is an acrylic-based product, and may be used quite safely with extruded foam or beadboard. The other is solvent-based, and should not be used on any type of foam board, as it will rapidly dissolve it. I would assume that both varieties are sold elsewhere in the world, so it is just a matter of only buying the acrylic product.
a> I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board a> to foam board a> though this is NOT recommended on the Liquid Nails cartridge a> directions. What is your experience?
There are several 'flavors' of Liquid Nails. Sounds like you have the wrong flavor. You want the 'Latex' type. It works fine, but you will need something to 'support' the foam.
a> Thanks for your help. a> AW a>
\/ Robert Heller ||InterNet: snipped-for-privacy@cs.umass.edu
Look for "Liquid Nails for Projects". This is a Latex base adhesive and will not attack the foam.
awe> I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board > to foam board
My specific problem is that the foamboard safe Liquid Nails are NOT recommended for foam to foam applications and require one porous surface. I wonder if this holds true for model railroad laminations? Regards AW
_MY_ experience with blue foam and Liquid Nails for Projects is unsatisfactory. For foam to foam joints, it was OK (but not great) for fastening, but due to the thickness of the material left a large gap that was a pain to clean up for scenicing. Low temp hot melt glue works far better, and you can work as fast as you can place the foam. A _water-based_ contact cement would work well, too.
For attaching foam to wood frames, it was completely worthless: It let go before the module I was working on was even finished. I used deck screws through 1/4" fender washers to make a mechanical attachment, drawing the screw down tight enough to sink into the foam, then using spackling over the hole. It's MUCH more secure!
At our club, we use the White Carpenters Glue.
It eats foam. I have always used Titebond carpenter's glue [water based Original formula, not the waterproof type] and have never had a problem with it. Setup time is around 30 minutes for a good bond, but I usually go ahead sooner than that.
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