Gluing foam board

I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board to foam board though this is NOT recommended on the Liquid Nails cartridge directions. What is your experience? Thanks for your help. AW

Reply to
aweinstock
Loading thread data ...

There are two varieties of Liquid Nails available here in Australia, one is an acrylic-based product, and may be used quite safely with extruded foam or beadboard. The other is solvent-based, and should not be used on any type of foam board, as it will rapidly dissolve it. I would assume that both varieties are sold elsewhere in the world, so it is just a matter of only buying the acrylic product.

Reply to
Mark Newton

a> I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board a> to foam board a> though this is NOT recommended on the Liquid Nails cartridge a> directions. What is your experience?

There are several 'flavors' of Liquid Nails. Sounds like you have the wrong flavor. You want the 'Latex' type. It works fine, but you will need something to 'support' the foam.

a> Thanks for your help. a> AW a>

\/ Robert Heller ||InterNet: snipped-for-privacy@cs.umass.edu

formatting link
|| snipped-for-privacy@deepsoft.com
formatting link
/\FidoNet: 1:321/153

Reply to
Robert Heller

Look for "Liquid Nails for Projects". This is a Latex base adhesive and will not attack the foam.

awe> I note that many of you recommend Liquid Nails for gluing foam board > to foam board

Reply to
Frank A. Rosenbaum

My specific problem is that the foamboard safe Liquid Nails are NOT recommended for foam to foam applications and require one porous surface. I wonder if this holds true for model railroad laminations? Regards AW

Reply to
aweinstock

Reply to
Charles Kimbrough

_MY_ experience with blue foam and Liquid Nails for Projects is unsatisfactory. For foam to foam joints, it was OK (but not great) for fastening, but due to the thickness of the material left a large gap that was a pain to clean up for scenicing. Low temp hot melt glue works far better, and you can work as fast as you can place the foam. A _water-based_ contact cement would work well, too.

For attaching foam to wood frames, it was completely worthless: It let go before the module I was working on was even finished. I used deck screws through 1/4" fender washers to make a mechanical attachment, drawing the screw down tight enough to sink into the foam, then using spackling over the hole. It's MUCH more secure!

Reply to
Joe Ellis

At our club, we use the White Carpenters Glue.

Reply to
<Will

It eats foam. I have always used Titebond carpenter's glue [water based Original formula, not the waterproof type] and have never had a problem with it. Setup time is around 30 minutes for a good bond, but I usually go ahead sooner than that.

Reply to
HarryM

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.